Andijan to Shahrihan: Getting to One of the Valley's Great Bazaars

In the Fergana Valley a bazaar is more than a place to shop: it is an event worth getting up before dawn for. Shahrihan is one of those towns people visit specifically for the bazaar, where everything is sold, from herbs and fruit to fabric, crockery, tools and livestock. The town is close to Andijan, and the trip fits easily into a morning. It does have its quirks, though: on the busiest trading days the road is congested, and getting home with heavy bags is easier if you plan your transport in advance.

Where Shahrihan is

Shahrihan lies southwest of Andijan, about 30 km away and not far from Asaka. The town dates back to the early 19th century, when these lands were part of the Kokand Khanate, and according to tradition it was founded at the order of one of the Kokand rulers. Today it is a large district centre with lively trade.

• Distance: about 30 km.
• Travel time by car: 35 to 45 minutes.
• By minibus: 45 to 60 minutes with stops.

When to visit the bazaar

The bazaar is open almost every day, but on certain days it gets especially crowded: traders and buyers come in from neighbouring districts and there is livestock trading nearby. It is best to ask locals or your driver which days are the main ones, as traditions shift over time. The general rules are:

• Arrive early. Trade is most active from dawn until midday. By lunchtime the rows are emptying and the best produce is gone.
• On peak days the road is busy. In the morning cars and minibuses to Shahrihan fill up quickly, and there can be jams near the bazaar entrance.
• Weekdays are calmer. If you just want to look around and buy fruit, an ordinary day is better: fewer people and easier bargaining.

How to get there from Andijan

Minibuses

Minibuses to Shahrihan leave from the Andijan bus station and from the usual stands near the central bazaar. On market days there are more of them, but more passengers too. Many minibuses drop you right at the bazaar, so ask the driver when you board.

Shared taxis

Shared taxis leave once they are full and get you there faster than a minibus. On market-day mornings you will hardly wait at all. Agree the fare before you get in and check where you will be dropped off.

Shared rides

On the Andijan to Shahrihan route, Yo'ldosh lets you find a driver leaving at the hour you need and book a seat in advance. This is especially handy if you want to arrive right at opening time and would rather not hunt for a car in the morning rush.

What to buy and what to see

The Shahrihan bazaar has several large sections, each with its own atmosphere:

1. Vegetables, fruit and herbs. Local tomatoes, cucumbers, melons, grapes and pomegranates in season, dried apricots and raisins all year round.
2. Dairy and baked goods. Qurt, kaymak, tandoor bread and samsa fresh from the oven.
3. Fabric and clothing. Atlas and adras, national dresses and skullcaps. Some of the fabric comes from Margilan, famous for its silk.
4. Crockery and household goods. Kazans, serving platters, ceramics and tools: families stock up on everything here.
5. The livestock market. For a city dweller this is a spectacle in itself, with loud and serious haggling. If you go to watch, keep to the side and do not get in the way of deals.

How to bargain and behave at the bazaar

• Prices for most goods are negotiable. Haggling is a normal part of the conversation, but keep it polite and friendly.
• Ask the price per kilo or per item before the seller starts weighing.
• Carry cash in small notes, as sellers are reluctant to give change for large ones.
• Keep an eye on your bag and phone in the crowd, as at any large market.
• Ask before photographing vendors. Most will smile and agree.

Getting back with your shopping

People usually leave the bazaar with heavy bags, and a minibus is not ideal for that: it is cramped and there is no room for luggage. A taxi seat or a shared ride with a boot is more comfortable. Yo'ldosh also covers the return route, Shahrihan to Andijan: choose an afternoon time once you have finished shopping and book a seat.

A few tips for the trip back:

• After midday the main crowd starts to disperse and it becomes easier to leave.
• If you have bought a lot, tell the driver about your luggage straight away.
• In summer, put perishables in the shade and do not leave them in a hot car.

How much it costs

The Andijan to Shahrihan trip is cheap thanks to the short distance and plentiful transport. A minibus is cheapest, a seat in a taxi or shared ride costs more and a whole car more again. Prices change, so check before you travel.

Shahrihan is a great way to see the Fergana Valley as it really is: noisy, generous and very much alive. Arrive early, bring cash and a big bag, and sort out transport in both directions in advance. For other routes across the valley, see the routes page.

Cover photo: Petar Milošević, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.