Chorsu Bazaar: How to Find Your Way Under the Green Dome

Chorsu is Tashkent's main bazaar and one of the city's most recognisable symbols. Its turquoise-green dome can be seen from afar, and inside, life bustles much as it has for centuries. For a traveller it is the best chance to get to know Uzbek food, smells and character in a couple of hours.

Where it is and how to get there

Chorsu sits in the old part of Tashkent, close to the Kukeldash madrasa. The name means "four sides" or "crossroads", and trade routes once crossed right here. The easiest way is the metro: the station is called Chorsu, and the bazaar is a few minutes' walk from it.

If you come from the suburbs, for example Chirchik or Almalyk, note that by car the streets around the bazaar can be congested at weekends. It is better to get out early and walk.

Best time to visit

• Morning. From 7 to 10 am the produce is freshest, there are fewer people and the vendors are friendlier.
• Weekdays. Weekends are especially crowded, though the atmosphere is liveliest.
• Heat. In summer it is stuffy under the dome at midday. Come in the morning or towards evening.

Opening days and hours may change, so check current information in advance.

How the bazaar is laid out

Under the central dome is the main food pavilion. Around it are rows, trading galleries and open-air areas. Navigation is easier if you remember a few key zones.

The meat hall

The round building under the dome sells meat, mainly lamb and beef. Horse meat and poultry are also available. If you are staying in an apartment with a kitchen, this is where meat for plov is bought.

Dairy rows

Curd, qatiq, sour cream, suzma and qurt are all sold on tiers along the galleries. Qurt are salty dried balls of curd that keep well and make a good snack.

Spice rows

Cumin, barberry, saffron, dried herbs, red pepper and ready blends for plov. Ask to smell before buying and wait while the seller scoops. Buy saffron from trusted vendors: fakes are common.

Dried fruit and nuts

Apricots, raisins, figs, almonds, walnuts and pistachios. The colour of dried fruit should not be too bright, a sign of chemical treatment. Taste several options before you buy.

Bread and pastries

Flatbreads (non) are baked on the spot. You will know by the smell. Samarkand and Tashkent loaves differ in shape and density, so try both.

Sweets

Halva, navat, parvarda and candy. Read more about them in our article on sweets; here we note the main thing: vendors let you taste, so do not refuse.

How to bargain

Bargaining in Uzbekistan is appropriate, but not necessary for items with fixed prices. A few rules:

1. First learn the price in two or three rows.
2. Smile and speak politely. A sharp tone does not help.
3. Offer a price 10 to 20 percent lower, but do not insult the seller with too low an amount.
4. If the price does not suit you, walk away calmly. You are often called back with a better offer.
5. If you buy several items at once, ask for a discount on the whole order.

Do not haggle over bread and small items: the sums are tiny, and sellers appreciate that.

What to buy

• Spices and plov blends.
• Dried fruit and nuts.
• Flatbreads and sweets.
• Qurt and suzma.
• Knives and ceramics if you want souvenirs (best to browse the souvenir rows and compare prices).

Before buying, ask how to store the product and how long it keeps. If you fly, consider restrictions on carrying food.

Safety and comfort

In crowds, watch your bag and phone: any large bazaar has pickpockets. Keep money in several places. Carry small notes so you do not have to look for change. Wear comfortable shoes: the floor is uneven and damp in places. Buy drinking water in bottles and wash fruit before eating.

What to see nearby

Next to the bazaar is the Kukeldash madrasa, as well as old-town neighbourhoods where narrow lanes and courtyards survive. You can combine a visit to Chorsu with a walk through them and lunch at one of the nearby teahouses.

Getting there from the suburbs

Many suburban residents come to Chorsu to shop. If you live in Chirchik or Almalyk, you can use shared rides: on the Tashkent — Chirchik page drivers post trips in the morning and daytime, and on the Tashkent — Almalyk route you can choose a convenient departure time. Prices are usually lower than a taxi, you book a seat in the Yo'ldosh app, and drivers are verified. It is handy to book the return ride in advance so you do not carry heavy bags on public transport. Other directions are collected on the all routes page.

The takeaway

Chorsu is not a museum or tourist scenery but a living market where people buy and sell every day. Give yourself a couple of hours, come in the morning, taste, ask and do not hurry. Even if you buy nothing, the smell of spices and warm flatbread will stay with you for a long time.

Cover photo: Theklan, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.