Urgench: Khorezm's modern capital and a base for day trips

Urgench is often seen as nothing more than Khiva's airport: the plane lands, a taxi, and forty minutes later you are at the walls of Itchan Kala. But Khorezm's main city has a role of its own. It is a calm modern city with wide streets, canals and a big bazaar — a convenient place to stay when Khiva is full, and an easy base for exploring the whole region: Khiva, the desert fortresses, Nukus and on towards the Aral Sea.

A little about the city

Do not confuse today's Urgench with Old Urgench — the ancient capital of Khorezm, whose ruins lie in Turkmenistan. At some point the name passed to the new town on the Shavat canal, and today Urgench is the administrative centre of Khorezm, with a population of several hundred thousand.

There are no historic ensembles on the scale of Khiva here: the city was mostly built in the 20th century. Instead it is lively, convenient and inexpensive compared with the tourist hubs.

What to see in Urgench

Half a day is enough to see the city properly:

• The al-Khwarizmi monument — to the famous scholar born in Khorezm, whose name gave us the word algorithm.
• The Jaloliddin Manguberdi monument and park — honouring the Khorezmshah who resisted the Mongol invasion. The park is a favourite place for locals to stroll.
• The Shavat canal — embankments along the canal, especially pleasant in the evening.
• The central bazaar — one of the busiest in the region. It sells the famous Khorezm melons, dried fruit, bread, spices and fabrics.

Do not miss Khorezm cuisine: shivit oshi, green dill noodles; tukhum barak, egg-filled dumplings; and in summer and autumn, the local melons.

Where to stay

Urgench has several hotels of different standards, small guesthouses and short-let apartments. Reasons to choose Urgench:

• Khiva is full. In peak season and on holidays there are few free rooms in Khiva, while Urgench is easier.
• An early flight or train. The airport and station are here, so you will not have to get up an hour earlier.
• Budget. For the same standard, accommodation is usually cheaper than by the walls of Itchan Kala.
• Trips around the region. Urgench is equally convenient for Khiva, the fortresses and Nukus.

Prices are approximate and depend on the season — check when booking.

Trips from Urgench

To Khiva

Khiva is 30–35 km away, about 40 minutes. Shared rides on the Urgench — Khiva route on Yo'ldosh are a convenient and cheap option: drivers make the trip several times a day, you book a seat in the app and pay only for yourself. Many people stay in Urgench, spend the day in Khiva and come back in the evening.

To the fortresses of ancient Khorezm

To the north, across the Amu Darya in Karakalpakstan, mud-brick fortresses stand in the desert — Ayaz Kala, Toprak Kala, Kyzyl Kala and others. They are 1–1.5 hours away. There is no public transport, so people hire a taxi for the day or join a tour. Leave early: there is no shade in the desert, and it is hot during the day for most of the year.

To Nukus

Nukus, the capital of Karakalpakstan, is about 150–160 km away, 2.5–3 hours. People go for the famous Savitsky Museum and as a stopover on the way to Muynak and the Aral Sea. There are shared rides on Urgench — Nukus — easier than finding a taxi at the station.

To Tashkent

The capital is about 1,000 km away. Most people fly — about 1.5 hours — or take the train. But there are also Urgench — Tashkent trips by car: long, but you can leave at a convenient time and carry more luggage. If you decide to go overland, split the journey over two days, for example with a night in Bukhara.

A sample three-day plan

When to go

• April–May — warm, everything in bloom, good for the desert.
• June–August — very hot, so plan trips for mornings and evenings.
• September–October — melon season and mild weather, the best time for exploring the region.
• Winter — cold and windy, but few tourists and low prices.

Practical tips

• Carry cash for the bazaar and taxis; hotels usually accept cards.
• Agree taxi fares before the trip, especially for longer journeys.
• For the desert, bring water, a hat and sunscreen.
• Keep your passport with you on trips to Karakalpakstan.

The bottom line

Urgench is not a substitute for Khiva but a convenient base: accommodation and transport are easier here, and all of Khorezm's highlights are close at hand. See trips on Urgench — Khiva, Urgench — Nukus and Urgench — Tashkent, and find other destinations on the routes page.

Cover photo: Jean-Pierre Dalbéra from Paris, France, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons.