The Turkmenistan Border: Crossing from Khorezm and Bukhara

Turkmenistan is one of the most closed countries in the region, which is exactly why so many travellers dream of crossing it overland: seeing the Darvaza gas crater, the ruins of Kunya-Urgench and Merv, and marble-clad Ashgabat. The most logical way is to combine the trip with Uzbekistan — enter from Khorezm and leave towards Bukhara, or the other way round. Unlike the borders with Kazakhstan or Kyrgyzstan, though, everything here depends on the visa, and you need to prepare well in advance. Turkmenistan's entry rules change, so always check them with a consulate or an accredited tour operator.

The two main crossings for tourists

Shavat — Dashoguz (Khorezm)

The Shavat checkpoint is in the Khorezm region, north-west of Urgench. The nearest large city on the Turkmen side is Dashoguz.

• It is about an hour's drive from Urgench to the crossing, a little longer from Khiva.
• Beyond the border lies Kunya-Urgench, the ancient capital of Khorezm with the Kutlug-Timur minaret and mausoleums, a UNESCO site.
• This is where most trips to the Darvaza crater and on to Ashgabat begin.

Alat — Farap (Bukhara)

The crossing near the village of Alat (Farap on the Turkmen side) is the main route from the Bukhara region towards Turkmenabat.

• From Bukhara to the border is about an hour and a half.
• After the crossing, Turkmenabat is around an hour away, and you cross the Amu Darya on the way.
• This is the route to Merv and on to Ashgabat.

Visas: the key point

Most foreigners cannot enter Turkmenistan without a visa. There are two main options.

Transit visa

• Issued for passing through the country, usually for a few days.
• You apply in advance at a consulate and state your entry and exit points.
• A visa for the next country or proof of onward travel is usually required.
• Processing can take a long time, and refusals happen without explanation — allow plenty of time.

Tourist visa

• Arranged through an accredited travel agency with a letter of invitation.
• As a rule, it involves an accompanying guide and an agreed itinerary.
• It gives more freedom of route than a transit visa.

A fee is usually paid on entry at the border — the amount changes, so carry extra US dollars in cash. Check the current requirements with the consulate.

Getting to the border

From Khiva and Urgench. Khiva and Urgench are neighbours, about 30–35 km apart. Many travellers stay in Khiva and, on the day of the crossing, travel via Urgench towards Shavat. A Urgench — Khiva ride is handy for moving between the two: Urgench is the transport hub with an airport and railway station, while Khiva is the museum city with accommodation inside the old walls.

From Bukhara. Many people first head to Kogon, Bukhara's satellite town and home to the region's main railway station. The Bukhara — Kogon trip takes about 20–30 minutes, and from there it is easy to continue south-west along the highway to Alat.

A typical route through Turkmenistan

1. Khiva — Shavat border — Dashoguz.
2. Kunya-Urgench.
3. A night by the Darvaza crater in the Karakum desert.
4. Ashgabat.
5. Merv and Mary.
6. Turkmenabat — Farap border — Alat — Bukhara.

This route needs at least 4–5 days, and on a transit visa the schedule is very tight.

What to consider at the border

• Luggage checks on the Turkmen side can be thorough: do not carry anything questionable, and keep medicines in their original packaging with a prescription.
• Photography at the crossings is prohibited, and restrictions on photography inside Turkmenistan are stricter than in Uzbekistan.
• Mobile service and internet in Turkmenistan are limited and roaming may not work — download offline maps and save your bookings.
• Money: bring cash US dollars in new, clean notes.
• Crossing time ranges from one to several hours, especially when entering Turkmenistan.

If you are returning to Uzbekistan

When entering Uzbekistan, check whether you need a visa — many nationalities enjoy visa-free entry. Your hotel will register you automatically. From Alat it is easy to take a taxi to Bukhara, and then continue around Uzbekistan by train or shared ride.

When to go

In summer the Karakum and Kyzylkum deserts reach +45°C in the daytime, and a night at the Darvaza crater becomes an ordeal of heat and dust. In winter, by contrast, the desert is cold and windy, with night temperatures below freezing. The most comfortable months for this route are April, May, September and October: warm days, cool nights and dry roads.

Tips

1. Submit your visa documents early — at least several weeks in advance.
2. Plan the exact crossing date: a transit visa is tied to specific dates.
3. Keep copies of your passport and visa on your phone and on paper.
4. Cross in the morning — on the Turkmen side, crossings often close earlier than you would expect.

Getting to the border districts is easy with local drivers: on Yo'ldosh you can book a seat in a shared ride around Khorezm and the Bukhara region, picking a departure time that matches your crossing date. The routes in this article are Urgench — Khiva and Bukhara — Kogon.

Cover photo: Popo le Chien, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons.