How to get to Lake Aydarkul: two roads to a desert sea

Aydarkul is a vast lake in the middle of the Kyzylkum desert, and by historical standards it is very young. In 1969, a year of exceptionally high water, surplus water from the Syr Darya was diverted into the Arnasay depression, and a chain of lakes hundreds of kilometres long formed where salt flats used to be. Today people come here for sandy shores, fishing, a night in a yurt and camel rides. The main challenge is logistics: there is almost no public transport to the water, and the two main roads approach the lake from opposite sides.

Two ways in

Aydarkul stretches from east to west and sits where the Jizzakh and Navoi regions meet. That gives you two routes:

• Eastern — through the Jizzakh region. From Tashkent along the highway to Jizzakh, then north-west through the Arnasay and Forish districts to the eastern and southern parts of the lake. Anglers and people coming from the capital usually go this way.
• Western — through Nurata. From Navoi north to Nurata, then around the Nuratau ridge to the village of Yangikazgan, near which the yurt camps stand. This route suits travellers moving between Samarkand and Bukhara.

The eastern route from Tashkent

1. Tashkent — Jizzakh. About 200 km, roughly 3 hours. The easiest way is a shared ride: on Yo'ldosh there are trips on the Tashkent — Jizzakh route every day; you book a seat in the app and pay only for yourself.
2. Jizzakh — the lake shore. Another 2–3 hours on regional roads. The asphalt is broken in places, and closer to the water the dirt tracks begin. There is effectively no public transport here, so you need a car with a driver, which you can find in Jizzakh.

In total it is 5–6 hours from Tashkent to the water. A day trip is possible but hardly worth it: you would spend most of the day on the road.

The western route via Navoi and Nurata

1. Samarkand — Navoi. About 170 km along the main highway, 2.5 hours. Trips on Samarkand — Navoi are regular, making it the most convenient way in from the west. From Bukhara to Navoi it is about 100 km.
2. Navoi — Nurata. Roughly 70 km north, about 1–1.5 hours. Nurata is worth a stop: the Chashma spring with its sacred fish and the ruins of a fortress that legend links to Alexander the Great.
3. Nurata — Yangikazgan — the lake. The road skirts the ridge and comes out into the desert. It takes about 1.5 hours to the yurt camps, then another 20–30 minutes from the camps to the shore.

This route is longer in kilometres but more interesting: mountains, villages and Nurata itself along the way.

Road conditions

• The main highways to Jizzakh and Navoi are good.
• Regional roads to Nurata and towards the lake are paved but uneven, with potholes and livestock on the road.
• The last kilometres to the water are dirt and sand. In dry weather an ordinary car can manage on the well-worn tracks, but do not leave them: it is easy to get stuck in sand, and help will be a long time coming.
• After rain the clay sections turn slippery. If it poured the day before, do not take the risk — go with a local driver in a four-wheel drive.

The yurt camps

Several yurt camps operate near Yangikazgan. They usually offer a night in a yurt, dinner and breakfast, camel rides, an evening by the campfire with folk music and a trip to the lake shore. Many camps also arrange transfers — from Nurata, Navoi, Samarkand or Bukhara — but that costs noticeably more than getting to Nurata on your own.

Book in advance, especially in spring and early autumn. Prices depend on the camp and the services included, so confirm them when you book.

When to go

Things to keep in mind

• Fuel. Fill up in Jizzakh or Nurata: there are no petrol stations in the desert.
• Signal. Mobile coverage by the lake and in the camps is weak or absent. Tell someone your route.
• Water and food. Bring supplies even if your camp includes meals.
• Sun. A hat, sunglasses and sunscreen are a must in any warm season.
• Swimming. The lake water is brackish and the bottom is muddy in places. Do not swim far out and never swim alone.

Choosing your route

If you are coming from Tashkent for fishing or a beach, the eastern route via Jizzakh is shorter. If you want yurts and camels and are touring Samarkand and Bukhara, take the western route via Navoi and Nurata. Either way, the first part of the journey is easy to cover by shared ride: see Tashkent — Jizzakh and Samarkand — Navoi, and find every destination on the routes page.

Cover photo: Jabez at English Wikipedia, Public domain, Wikimedia Commons.