Camping in Uzbekistan: Where You Can Pitch a Tent

Uzbekistan has few dedicated campsites with power points and showers, but plenty of places where you can pitch a tent and wake up to mountains or a lake. There is no strict system like in European parks, so a lot depends on common sense, respect for local people and a few simple rules. Here is where to go with a tent, how to pick a spot and what to keep in mind so your night out does not end with a fine or a soaked sleeping bag.

Can you camp anywhere

The general rule: on unfenced land outside settlements, travellers have long camped without problems. There are exceptions, though:

• strict nature reserves (zapovedniks): access is tightly limited and camping without a permit is forbidden;
• national parks: camping is possible, but you often pay an ecological fee and must stay in permitted areas;
• border zones: better not to go there at all without a permit;
• private orchards, pastures and guesthouse grounds: only with the owner's consent.

If there is a village nearby, simply ask locals whether you can stay the night. People are usually welcoming and will also tell you where the spring is and where not to sleep because of livestock or damp ground.

Charvak and Bostanliq

This is the favourite area for Tashkent residents. The shores of the Charvak reservoir and the Beldersay, Koksu, Chatkal and Pskem valleys are 1.5–3 hours' drive from the capital. Much of the Charvak shoreline is taken by holiday resorts, but there are open stretches where tents appear every weekend. The further from the main road, the quieter it gets.

Part of the area belongs to Ugam-Chatkal National Park. Some valleys charge an entry fee, and campfires are restricted in certain places. The Tashkent — Chirchik route is a convenient first leg; from there local transport runs to Gazalkent, Burchmulla or Charvak.

Zaamin and the Jizzakh mountains

Zaamin National Park covers juniper forests at 1,500–2,500 m. In summer it is much cooler than in the valley, and at night the temperature can drop to around 10 °C or lower. People camp in clearings by rivers and near guesthouses, but ask on the spot where it is allowed. Travel via the Tashkent — Jizzakh route and continue towards Zaamin.

The desert and Aydarkul

Yurt camps operate on the shores of Lake Aydarkul: you can sleep in a yurt or, by arrangement, pitch your own tent nearby. A night in the desert means stars and silence, but in spring and autumn the temperature swings sharply, hot by day and cold at night. In summer, open sand is hard to bear during the day, so camp is set up towards evening.

Choosing a spot

1. Do not camp in a riverbed or right by the water. Mountain rivers rise after rain or snowmelt upstream, and side gullies can produce mudflows.
2. Avoid slopes below scree and lone trees during thunderstorms.
3. Look for livestock tracks. A path where a flock will be driven at dawn is not the best bedroom.
4. Set up before dark. Night falls quickly in the mountains, especially in narrow gorges.
5. Check your signal. Mobile coverage often disappears in deep valleys, so tell someone your route in advance.

Water

There are springs almost everywhere in the mountains, but even clear-looking water should be boiled or filtered, as animals may graze upstream. In the desert there is no water at all: plan on 3–4 litres per person per day in summer plus extra for cooking. Take your plastic bottles away with you.

Campfires

• In summer and early autumn grass and juniper are extremely dry and mountain winds are strong. Use a gas stove, and light a fire only where it is allowed and on an existing fire ring.
• Never cut living trees, especially juniper: it grows very slowly and is protected.
• Douse the embers completely with water before you leave.

National park rules

Ugam-Chatkal and Zaamin parks share the same basic requirements: pay the fee if there is one, leave no litter, keep quiet at night, do not pick rare plants such as wild tulips and do not approach wild animals. Rangers may ask where you plan to spend the night; that is normal.

What to bring

• a tent with a good flysheet and a sleeping bag rated to around 0–5 °C, even for summer in the mountains;
• a sleeping mat, because the ground is cold at night;
• a gas stove and canisters (you cannot fly with them, so buy them locally);
• a first-aid kit, mosquito repellent for lakesides and sunscreen;
• rubbish bags.

Season

The best time is May to early October in the mountains, and April–May or September–October in the desert. In winter and early spring there is snow in the mountains and the valleys are damp.

Getting to camp

A shared ride is a convenient way to reach the trailhead: on Yo'ldosh you can book a seat on the Tashkent — Chirchik and Tashkent — Jizzakh routes. It is cheaper than a taxi and drivers are verified; it is worth mentioning your tent and backpack to the driver in the chat beforehand. If you are driving yourself and have spare seats, offer them on the for drivers page.

Cover photo: Elgaard, CC0, Wikimedia Commons.