Khiva in One Day: A Route Through Ichan-Kala
A one-day plan for Khiva that accounts for the heat, the combined ticket, minarets and sunset on the city walls. What to fit in and how not to overheat.
Khiva is one of the most compact historic cities in Uzbekistan. The inner city, Ichan-Kala, is surrounded by clay walls and holds dozens of monuments in a small space. That is why you can realistically see the essentials here in one day; the main thing is to pace yourself, especially in summer when the heat reaches high levels.
What to know in advance
- Ichan-Kala is a fortress inside the old town, a site with a rich history. The main madrasas, minarets, palaces and mausoleums stand here.
- A combined ticket. Entry to the grounds and main monuments is often arranged as a combined ticket. Check current prices and what the ticket covers on the spot, as they change.
- Heat. Summer in Khiva can be very hot, and midday temperatures can be hard going. Plan main walks for morning and evening.
- Clothing and shoes. Comfortable shoes, light modest clothing, a hat and water.
- Timing. Opening hours of monuments change, so check them in advance.
The plan for the day
8:00: start at the west gate
Begin at Ata-Darvaza, the west gate of Ichan-Kala. The morning light is soft and there are no crowds yet. For the first half hour just walk along the streets, looking at the clay, courtyards and workshops.
8:30: Kalta Minor and Muhammad Amin Khan
Kalta Minor is a short but very wide minaret covered in turquoise majolica. It was left unfinished but became a symbol of the city. Beside it is the Muhammad Amin Khan Madrasa. Photographs here are best taken in the morning while the light is soft.
9:30: Kunya-Ark
Kunya-Ark is the old citadel of Khiva's rulers. Its viewing platform offers the best view of Ichan-Kala. The visit takes about an hour. Climb in the morning, before it gets hot.
11:00: the Islam Khoja Madrasa and Minaret
The Islam Khoja Minaret is the tallest in Khiva, about 45 metres. The climb up the narrow staircase can be tight, but the top offers a panorama of the city. If you dislike enclosed spaces, admire it from below.
12:00: the Juma Mosque
A unique mosque with a forest of wooden columns instead of the usual walls and domes. There are around two hundred columns, many of them very old and covered in carving. Inside it is cool and quiet, a good place to wait out the midday heat.
13:00: lunch and rest
Have lunch at a teahouse: Khorezm plov, lagman, samsa. It is the hottest time of day, so do not hurry and rest in the shade.
15:30: Tash-Khauli
The Tash-Khauli Palace ("Stone Courtyard") was built in the nineteenth century. It includes a harem, ceremonial halls and courtyards decorated with majolica. The visit takes about an hour.
16:30: the Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum
The Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum is a shrine of Khiva, honouring the patron of wrestlers and a poet. The dome is covered in turquoise majolica, with rich decoration inside. Keep quiet and modest.
18:00: sunset on the city walls
At the end of the day climb the city walls. Sunset paints the clay in warm colours, and the old town looks especially picturesque. It is the best moment for photos and an unhurried stroll.
19:30: dinner
Dinner at a teahouse or restaurant in Ichan-Kala. Order shashlik, samsa, lagman or Khorezm dishes such as tukhum-barak (dumplings with egg).
The plan in a table
| Time | Place |
|---|---|
| 8:00 | West gate, stroll |
| 8:30 | Kalta Minor |
| 9:30 | Kunya-Ark |
| 11:00 | Islam Khoja Minaret |
| 12:00 | Juma Mosque |
| 13:00 | Lunch and rest |
| 15:30 | Tash-Khauli |
| 16:30 | Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum |
| 18:00 | Sunset on the walls |
| 19:30 | Dinner |
Practical tips
- Drink more water than usual. The heat is deceptive.
- In the middle of the day take a break in shade or cool buildings.
- Money for tickets and tea is best in cash.
- Do not rush to buy souvenirs: compare prices in several shops.
- Photograph people only with their permission.
- Follow the rules of conduct in mosques and mausoleums.
Getting there
Many people come to Khiva for a day from neighbouring Urgench, where the nearest airport is. The distance is about 35 kilometres, and the trip takes roughly 40 to 50 minutes. You can choose a trip on the Urgench — Khiva page. For those travelling along the Silk Road, the route from Bukhara fits: the road across the desert takes about 6 to 7 hours, and trips are posted on the Bukhara — Khiva page. You book a seat in the Yo'ldosh app, drivers are verified, and the price is usually lower than a taxi. Other directions are collected on the all routes page.
The takeaway
Khiva in a day is a chance to see the essentials and feel the atmosphere of the city. Plan activity for morning and evening, pause in the heat, do not hesitate to step into teahouses and climb the walls at sunset. If the desire remains, add a second day: then the city will open up more calmly and deeply.
Cover photo: Petar Milošević, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.
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