The fortresses of Ellikkala: Ayaz-Kala, Toprak-Kala, Kyzyl-Kala

Ellikkala means fifty fortresses in Karakalpak. It is the name given to a group of ancient fortifications and ruined towns on the right bank of the Amu Darya, at the edge of the Kyzylkum desert in Karakalpakstan. They arose in the period of ancient Khorezm, when a state with its own writing, culture and a branching irrigation system existed here. Today mudbrick walls rise straight from the sand and make a strong impression: it feels as though time has stopped here.

The three main fortresses

Kyzyl-Kala

The name means red fortress. It is one of the best preserved structures in the region: tall mudbrick walls, corner towers, arrow slits. It dates from the first centuries AD. It lies closest to the road, so it is convenient to start your tour here. The site is open and you can walk around the perimeter.

Toprak-Kala

A fortress-palace that in the first centuries AD was a residence of the rulers of Khorezm. The remains of a vast palace complex were found here, with halls, storerooms, temple rooms and living quarters. Excavations showed that traces of wall paintings and sculpture survived in the walls. Today the outlines of buildings and towers are visible. Toprak-Kala stands on a plain, so the wind blows freely.

Ayaz-Kala

A group of three fortresses, the best known of which stands on a hilltop and is visible from afar. It existed from deep antiquity and was rebuilt in different eras. From here a view of the desert opens: a boundless sea of sand in which other fortresses can be seen. Nearby is a yurt camp where you can stay overnight and see sunset and sunrise over the fortress.

Which order to go in

A convenient route starts from Beruni, where you can take a car or join other travellers. The typical order is:

1. Kyzyl-Kala. First on the way, good for an introduction.
2. Toprak-Kala. The main stop with the largest complex.
3. Ayaz-Kala. The finale: a climb up the hill, sunset and a night in a yurt.

There are several dozen kilometres between the fortresses, and part of the road is unpaved. Do not count on a tight schedule, because the road takes time.

How much time you need

If you have one day, leave Beruni early in the morning and plan 6 to 8 hours for the fortresses including the road. It is better to spend a night here: you will see Ayaz-Kala at sunset and sunrise and continue the next day without haste. A day and a half is ideal. If you come from Khiva, add time for the journey there and back.

Where to sleep

A yurt camp operates near Ayaz-Kala where you can stay overnight, eat and sit by a fire. Conditions are simple: felt mats, blankets, a shared eating area. It is quiet, with millions of stars overhead. Bring warm clothing even in summer, since the desert gets cold at night. Check prices and conditions in advance, and in season book a place.

How to get there

Base points for the trip are Beruni, Nukus, Urgench and Khiva. From Nukus to Beruni it is about 90 to 120 kilometres, from Urgench about 100 to 130. See trips on the Urgench to Beruni and Nukus to Beruni pages. If you are travelling between Khiva and Nukus, the Khiva to Nukus route fits: you can break it up by stopping at the fortresses. In the Yo'ldosh app you can find a driver heading your way, and arrange a car for the day on the spot.

What to bring

• water at a rate of at least three litres per person per day;
• a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen;
• closed shoes: sand, stones and thorns;
• warm clothing for the evening;
• cash: there are no terminals in the desert;
• a torch and a charger;
• a snack, especially if you do not plan to stop at the camp.

Rules and caution

The fortresses are archaeological monuments. Do not climb the walls, do not take pottery shards and do not leave litter. Do not wander far without a companion: it is hard to navigate in the desert, and signal is unreliable. Tell someone your route.

When to go

The best time is spring and autumn. In summer the temperature exceeds forty degrees and sightseeing becomes exhausting. Winter is cold and windy, but there are few people.

Plan your trip

To reach Beruni, open the Urgench to Beruni, Nukus to Beruni or Khiva to Nukus pages. Other directions are in all routes. Drivers who travel around Khorezm and Karakalpakstan will find the for drivers page useful.

Cover photo: Tim Adams, CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.