Bukhara's Trading Domes: Toki Zargaron, Telpak Furushon, Sarrafon

Old Bukhara was a city of trade. Caravans carrying silk, spices, carpets and metal passed through it, and all that life was concentrated at the crossroads of the main streets. In the 16th century, under the Shaybanid dynasty, domes called "toki" were built over the busiest intersections. They protected merchants and buyers from the sun, dust and winter wind. Of the many trading structures, four have survived, and today they work as a market again, just for a different crowd.

How the domes work

A toki is an intersection covered by a large central dome, surrounded by smaller domes and shop niches. The streets run straight through the building, so the dome acts as a covered square. The central dome has openings that let in light and let hot air escape. Even in the heat it is noticeably cooler inside than outside.

Each dome specialised in particular goods, and the names have kept that specialisation.

Toki Zargaron: the jewellers' dome

"Zargar" means jeweller. This is the largest of the domes, closest to the Po-i-Kalyan ensemble and beside the Ulugbek and Abdulaziz Khan madrasas. Dozens of jewellery workshops once operated here. Today Toki Zargaron sells silver, turquoise and carnelian jewellery, both antique and in traditional style, as well as carpets, suzani and ceramics.

Toki Telpak Furushon: the hat sellers' dome

"Telpak" means headwear and "furushon" means sellers. Caps, skullcaps, fur and felt hats were traded here. Today you will find a bit of everything under this dome: skullcaps from different regions, books, postcards, knives, musical instruments and fabrics. Telpak Furushon is architecturally interesting too: five streets meet at this crossroads, so the building's plan is irregular.

Toki Sarrafon: the money changers' dome

"Sarraf" means money changer. This dome stands by the old Shahrud canal, a few minutes from Lyabi-Hauz. In the past, coins of many states were exchanged here, as merchants from all over the world passed through Bukhara. Today Toki Sarrafon sells fabrics, souvenirs and spices, and workshops surround it.

Tim Abdullah Khan

The fourth building is Tim Abdullah Khan, built in 1577. It is not a crossroads but a covered trading arcade where silk and wool were sold. Under its high dome, carpet sellers usually work today. It is quiet and cool inside, and this is the best place to look at carpets calmly without being rushed.

What to buy

• Suzani - embroidered bedspreads and wall hangings. Handwork on natural fabric costs noticeably more than machine embroidery. Check the back: hand embroidery is uneven on the reverse.
• Stork scissors - forged scissors shaped like a bird, a symbol of Bukhara's blacksmiths. In the forges near the domes they are made in front of you.
• Miniatures - paintings on paper in the tradition of Eastern book miniatures.
• Carpets - wool and silk, new and old. For expensive purchases, check the rules on exporting old carpets and keep your receipts.
• Ceramics - including Gijduvan ware with its brown and green glaze.
• Skullcaps, chapan robes and jewellery.

How to bargain

Bargaining under the domes is a normal part of buying, but it should be done politely:

1. First look around several shops and ask prices without buying anything.
2. Start with a smile and a question rather than a blunt "too expensive".
3. Offer a price you are actually willing to pay, but not an insultingly low one.
4. If you agree on a price, buy. Backing out after agreeing is bad form.
5. Buying several items makes a discount easier.
6. Carry cash in small notes; it makes paying easier, although cards are accepted more and more often.

Prices depend heavily on the season, the quality and how much you bargain, so any figures in guidebooks are only a rough guide.

Where to see workshops

The best thing about the domes is not just shopping but watching craftspeople at work. Near the domes and in the lanes of the old city there are forges making knives and scissors, and workshops of miniaturists, embroiderers and metalworkers. Many craftspeople are happy to show the process and do not push you to buy. If you want to photograph someone at work, ask first.

Practical tips

• The domes lie conveniently between Lyabi-Hauz and Po-i-Kalyan, all on one line.
• Morning is best, when the shops have just opened and sellers are in the mood for an unhurried chat.
• In the evening some shops close, but the domes are beautifully lit.
• If you buy a carpet or a large suzani, ask the seller to roll and pack it tightly; it is then much easier to carry in a car or on a train.
• Do not buy objects that look like archaeological finds; exporting them is prohibited.

Getting here from Samarkand

Many travellers save their shopping for Bukhara, where the choice of suzani and carpets is especially wide. Samarkand to Bukhara is about 270 km, three and a half to four hours by car. A shared ride via Yo'ldosh is convenient: you book a seat in the app and drivers are verified. Find trips on the Samarkand - Bukhara route page and other directions in the routes section.

Cover photo: Jamshid Nurkulov, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.