How to Get to Rishtan from Fergana and Kokand

Rishtan is a small town in the south-west of the Fergana Valley that is known far beyond Uzbekistan. For centuries potters here have made ceramics with a blue and turquoise ishkor glaze, and today dozens of family workshops are still at work. Conveniently, Rishtan sits almost halfway between Fergana and Kokand, so it is easy to reach from either side. Getting back in the evening, however, can be harder than getting there in the morning. Here are both directions and the return trip.

From Fergana to Rishtan

Distance: about 50–60 km.
Travel time: 1 hour to 1 hour 20 minutes by car.

The road from Fergana runs west through Margilan and Altyaryk along the old highway to Kokand. It passes through villages and orchards, so it is not fast, but it is never dull. Transport:

• minibuses and shared cars towards Rishtan and Kokand leave from Fergana bus station and from Margilan; check with the driver that they stop in central Rishtan;
• taxi is convenient if there are several of you and you want to visit a few workshops;
• shared ride: you can book a seat in advance on the Fergana — Rishtan page.

From Kokand to Rishtan

Distance: about 40–50 km.
Travel time: 45 minutes to 1 hour.

From Kokand the road heads east along the same old highway, and Rishtan is the first sizeable stop on the way to Fergana. Many cars and buses going from Kokand to Fergana or Margilan pass through Rishtan, so you can take any of them and ask to be dropped off. If you want to know the departure time in advance, check the trips on the Kokand — Rishtan page.

From Tashkent it is convenient to take the train to Kokand and continue by car to Rishtan. This is noticeably faster than going via Fergana.

What to do in Rishtan

Rishtan is not a museum town but a living craft. The main reason to come is the workshops.

Potters' workshops

Many family workshops welcome visitors: they show how the clay is prepared, how the wheel works, how pieces are painted and fired in the kiln. You can usually buy directly from the master. Tips:

• ask your driver or locals which workshops receive guests; everyone knows them;
• come in the morning, when you are more likely to see wheel work and painting;
• bargaining is fine within reason, as handmade work is worth its price;
• ask for your purchases to be wrapped well with paper, cardboard and film.

What else to see

The town has a ceramics museum with work by several generations of masters; check opening hours locally. Beyond that, enjoy a walk along the workshop streets, the bazaar and a teahouse.

Getting back in the evening

This is the most important part of planning. During the day, transport through Rishtan runs often, but after sunset there are fewer minibuses and shared cars take longer to fill.

Some options that work:

1. Book your return in advance. If drivers post evening trips, you can take a seat in the morning, for example on the Rishtan — Fergana page.
2. Get to the main road before dark. Cars between Kokand and Fergana pass through town, and before 5–6 pm it is easier to find a ride.
3. Arrange a pickup with your taxi driver. If a taxi brought you, agree straight away that it will collect you in the evening, and settle the price in advance.
4. Do not leave it to the last minute. In winter it gets dark early, and the rural stretches of road are poorly lit.

Table: Rishtan from both sides

Figures are approximate and depend on your starting point and traffic.

How much it costs

Prices for minibuses, shared cars and taxis change, so think in rough terms: a minibus is cheapest, a seat in a car costs several times more, and a whole taxi costs about the same as four seats. A shared ride is usually similar to a seat in a car. Check the exact amount before you travel.

Useful tips

1. Bring cash: cards are not accepted everywhere in workshops and at the bazaar.
2. If you buy a lot of ceramics, think ahead about how you will carry it onward, by train, plane or car.
3. In summer come in the morning: Rishtan is hot at midday, and workshops with kilns even more so.
4. Respect the masters' workspace and ask before taking photos.

The bottom line

Rishtan is easy to reach from both Fergana and Kokand, in about an hour. The key is to plan your return in advance. You can book trips on the Fergana — Rishtan, Kokand — Rishtan and Rishtan — Fergana pages; other valley routes are in the routes section.

Cover photo: Asturio Cantabrio, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.