The Nurullabay Palace: Khiva at the start of the twentieth century
A khan's summer residence in Dishan-Kala with European stoves and Russian furniture: how to get there, what to see and how to combine the visit with a walk through Ichan-Kala.
Khiva is famous for its medieval Ichan-Kala, but those who have seen the old town should go beyond its walls and visit the Nurullabay Palace, one of the most unusual twentieth-century monuments in the region. Here you can see how Khiva changed at a turning point of eras: Eastern taste sits beside European objects, and old architecture beside new ideas.
Where it is
The palace stands in Dishan-Kala, the outer part of the city enclosed by a second wall. It is not far from Ichan-Kala, ten to fifteen minutes on foot from the gate. The building lies away from the main tourist routes, so it is usually quieter than the centre. From Urgench to Khiva it is about 35 kilometres, a trip of around forty minutes.
History of the palace
The palace was built in the early twentieth century, in the 1900s, for Nurullabay, an associate of the Khan of Khiva, under whom Khiva lived under a Russian protectorate. Construction lasted several years. It was a period when Khiva's nobility took up European living: furniture, tableware and stoves were ordered in, and new elements appeared in the decor. The palace was conceived as a summer residence and a place for receptions, where its owner could show guests his wealth and taste.
After the revolution the palace was nationalised. Today a museum operates here, and the building has been restored and opened to visitors.
What to see
Architecture and courtyard
The complex consists of several courtyards and many rooms around a central space. The facades are decorated with carved wood, coloured painting and tiles. High painted ceilings recall the best examples of the local tradition.
European details
The main thing that sets the palace apart from the usual mausoleums and madrasas is the trace of European fashion. The halls hold stoves faced with coloured tiles, furniture in European style and imported household objects. They contrast with the Eastern patterns on walls and ceilings and create a combination rare in the region.
Reception halls
The ceremonial rooms are decorated with fine painting on ganch plaster: plant ornament, gilding, mirror insets. Notice the colour: saturated blue, red and gold tones make the interior almost theatrical.
The museum
In some halls there is an exhibition of household items and documents telling of life in Khiva in the early twentieth century.
How to spend your time
A visit to the palace usually takes about an hour. It is better to come in the morning, while it is not hot and the light is soft. A good order for the day:
- Morning. The Nurullabay Palace and Dishan-Kala.
- Midday. Ichan-Kala: Kunya-Ark, the Islam Khoja minaret, the Juma Mosque.
- Lunch. A tea house in the old town.
- Evening. Sunset over the walls of Ichan-Kala.
Practical tips
- Entry is paid; prices and hours can change, so check on the spot or from official sources.
- Dress modestly, although the palace is not a living shrine.
- Bring water and a hat: Khiva is very hot in summer.
- Ask permission before photographing inside.
- Plan the way back in advance, especially in the evening.
How to get there from Urgench
Urgench is the nearest large city and the air gateway to the region. From there minibuses, taxis and shared rides run to Khiva. Trips are collected on the Urgench to Khiva page. In the Yo'ldosh app you book one seat and see the driver's profile and departure time. It is cheaper than a whole-cab taxi and handy if you travel light. The trip back from Khiva to Urgench takes the same forty minutes.
What to eat
In Khiva try shovla (Khorezm plov with rice and meat), tukhum barak (dumplings with egg) and Khorezm flatbread. The old town has many tea houses, but prices are higher than outside the walls.
When to go
Khiva is best in spring and autumn. Summer is hot, so rest during the day and see monuments early in the morning and in the evening. Winter has few tourists, but it can be cold and damp.
Plan your trip
To reach Khiva from Urgench, open the Urgench to Khiva page. Other directions are in all routes. Drivers who regularly travel to Khorezm will find the for drivers page useful.
Cover photo: upyernoz from Haverford, USA, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons.
.jpg){kind=link}