Chilpyk and Mizdahkan: ancient necropolises near Nukus

Karakalpakstan keeps monuments that lead far beyond the usual tourist images of Uzbekistan. To the north-west and south of Nukus there are two ancient places: the hill of Mizdahkan with its huge necropolis, and Chilpyk, a Zoroastrian tower of silence. Both stand in open country and draw those interested in pre-Islamic history and the atmosphere of ancient Khorezm.

Chilpyk: the tower of silence

Chilpyk is a round mudbrick structure on a height standing in the middle of the desert. It is assigned to the Zoroastrian tradition and usually called a dakhma, or tower of silence. Zoroastrians did not bury the dead in the ground or burn them, so as not to defile the elements, but left bodies on elevated open platforms where birds and the sun cleaned them, and then collected the bones in special receptacles. Chilpyk was used for this rite around two thousand years ago. The upper part of the building has not survived, but the walls rise several metres, and from the hill a huge view of the plain opens.

You will meet few people here, especially on weekdays. Remember that it is an archaeological monument and an ancient sacred place. Do not take away fragments of brick or pottery, do not leave litter and do not climb the walls.

Mizdahkan: a city of the dead and the living

Mizdahkan is near the town of Khodjeyli, not far from Nukus, about 20 kilometres. It is a huge complex including the remains of a town, the fortress of Gyaur-Kala and a vast cemetery used from deep antiquity to the fourteenth century. People buried the dead of different eras here: Zoroastrians, Muslims, members of different peoples.

Mausoleums stand on the site, the best known tied to local legends. Among them is the mausoleum of Mazlum Khan Sulu: people tell the story of a beauty whose fate became the subject of tales. There is also a shrine associated with the prophet Shamun, to which pilgrims come.

The hill of Mizdahkan is considered sacred. The place is active, so the rules of conduct are simple: modest clothing, quiet, attention to what other visitors are doing.

How to combine both places

Half a day is enough for both places if you have a car with a driver. Chilpyk and Mizdahkan lie in different directions from Nukus, so road distances should be taken into account in advance. A convenient order:

1. Morning. Leave Nukus for Chilpyk while it is not hot and the light is soft.
2. Midday. The road back and lunch in town.
3. Afternoon. Mizdahkan: the hill and the cemetery complex. Evening light adds particular expressiveness.

If you are short of time, choose one place. Mizdahkan is closer, while Chilpyk requires a longer trip, so it is better to pair it with another route, for example a trip to the Ellikkala fortresses.

How to get there

Around the city and its surroundings you can move by taxi or a car hired with a driver. For trips between towns of the region, see trips on the Nukus to Urgench and Nukus to Beruni pages. In the Yo'ldosh app you can book a seat with a driver heading your way, and arrange a trip around the monuments on the spot. The precise location of Chilpyk and the state of the road are best confirmed with your driver or guide: desert roads can be unpaved.

What to bring

• water at a rate of at least two to three litres per person;
• a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen;
• comfortable closed shoes;
• light clothing covering shoulders and knees;
• cash for water, tickets and tips;
• a camera or phone with spare charge.

Rules of conduct

Both monuments remain places revered by local people. So:

• speak quietly and do not make noise;
• do not touch graves and tombstones;
• ask permission before photographing people;
• do not take away stones or pottery;
• do not enter where prohibiting signs stand.

When to go

The best time is spring and autumn. In summer the temperature exceeds forty degrees and a midday visit is exhausting, so set out at dawn. Winter is cold and windy, but visibility is good.

Plan your trip

To find a trip to or from Nukus, open the Nukus to Urgench and Nukus to Beruni pages. Other directions are in all routes. Drivers who travel around Karakalpakstan will find the for drivers page useful.

Cover photo: Adam Harangozó, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.