Nukus to Khiva: across the Amu Darya past desert fortresses
How to get from Nukus to Khiva and see the Ellikkala fortresses on the way: transport options, two roads along the Amu Darya and a schedule that fits it all in.
The trip from Nukus to Khiva is one of the most rewarding short journeys in Uzbekistan. The cities are about 200 km apart, but between them lie the Amu Darya and a whole constellation of ancient Khorezmian fortresses known as Ellikkala, the fifty fortresses. Stick to the highway and you will be in Khiva in three hours. Take your time and you get one of the most memorable days of the trip.
Distance and time
- Nukus to Khiva: about 180–200 km depending on the road.
- By car: 2.5–3.5 hours without stops.
- With the Ellikkala fortresses: allow a full day.
- Nukus to Beruni: about 100 km, roughly an hour and a half.
Two roads along the Amu Darya
Nukus and Khiva are on opposite sides of the Amu Darya, so you have to cross the river either way. There are two main options:
- Along the left bank, via Khodjeyli towards Urgench and then to Khiva. This is usually the most direct route if you just want to get there.
- Along the right bank, south through Beruni and the Ellikkala district, crossing the Amu Darya by bridge closer to Urgench. This route passes the main fortresses and is the choice for those who want to combine the trip with sightseeing.
Which road the driver takes depends on the state of roads and bridges in a given season, so check in advance.
The Ellikkala fortresses
On the right bank of the Amu Darya, in the desert between Beruni and Ellikkala, the remains of fortified towns and castles of ancient Khorezm have survived. The best known are:
- Toprak Kala: the ruins of a palace and town complex with tall mud-brick walls, one of the most important archaeological sites in the region.
- Ayaz Kala: several fortresses on a hill and at its foot. The summit looks out over the desert and salt lakes, and sunsets here are especially beautiful.
- Kyzyl Kala: a small square fortress right by the road, handy for a short stop.
Why are there so many fortresses? Ancient Khorezm was a rich farming oasis on the edge of the nomadic world, and for centuries its people defended their canals, fields and trade routes against raids. Many fortifications were built of mud brick and clay, so over two thousand years their walls have slumped and now look like sand hills. That makes it all the more striking when you climb a wall and see the clear rectangle of an ancient town in the middle of the desert. Archaeologists have studied these sites since the middle of the last century, and many finds are kept in museums in Nukus and Tashkent.
The fortresses stand in open desert: there is almost no shade, paths are sandy and some climbs are steep. Comfortable shoes, water and a hat are a must.
How to plan the day
Here is a plan that works well in spring and autumn:
- 8:00: leave Nukus.
- 9:30: Beruni, a short tea stop.
- 10:30–13:00: Kyzyl Kala and Toprak Kala.
- 13:00–14:00: lunch.
- 14:00–16:00: Ayaz Kala and the climb up the hill.
- 16:00–18:00: cross the Amu Darya and drive on to Khiva.
In summer, move everything 1–2 hours earlier and cut the time spent in the open sun. In winter the days are short, so pick one or two fortresses rather than all of them.
Transport options
A taxi for the day
The easiest way if you want to visit the fortresses. The driver waits at each stop and knows how to reach them on dirt tracks. Agree the route and price in advance, ideally through your hotel in Nukus.
A shared ride to Khiva
If you do not need the fortresses and simply want to get there, a seat in a car is better value. On Yo'ldosh, drivers publish trips on the Nukus — Khiva route, showing the departure time, price per seat and driver's profile. It is cheaper than a private taxi and quicker than hunting for a car at a taxi stand.
To Beruni, then local transport
A combined option for budget travellers: ride to Beruni in a shared car on the Nukus — Beruni route, then take a local taxi from Beruni to the fortresses and on to Khiva. That way you save money and still see the highlights.
Public transport
Buses and minibuses run between Nukus and Urgench, but they do not go to the fortresses. For tourists this is only an option for a direct transfer.
Comparison
| Option | Time | Fortresses on the way | Budget |
|---|---|---|---|
| Taxi for the day | full day | yes, all the main ones | high |
| Seat in a car to Khiva | 2.5–3.5 h | no | medium |
| Shared ride to Beruni plus taxi | full day | yes | medium |
| Bus or minibus | 3–4 h | no | low |
Going the other way
The same route works from Khiva to Nukus. In that case it is convenient to leave in the morning, see the fortresses during the day, end with sunset at Ayaz Kala and reach Nukus after dark. If you do, agree the late return with your driver in advance and book accommodation in Nukus so you are not searching for a room at night.
Practical tips
- Cash is essential: cards are not accepted around the fortresses.
- Download an offline map, as signal in the desert is patchy.
- Fill up in Nukus and Beruni; there are few fuel stations in between.
- In Khiva, ask your hotel where a car can drop you, as part of Itchan Kala is pedestrian.
Find trips on the Nukus — Khiva and Nukus — Beruni routes on Yo'ldosh, and other directions on the routes page.
Cover photo: Petar Milošević, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.
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