Uzbekistan in Winter in One Week: Mountains and Cities
How to combine skiing at Amirsoy with a nearly empty Samarkand and Bukhara: a week in which snow, hearty winter food and queue-free monuments fit into one plan.
Winter is the most underrated season for a trip around Uzbekistan. While tourists wait for spring, snow lies in the mountains near Tashkent and the lifts are running, and Samarkand and Bukhara stand almost empty. Tilework against a cold blue sky looks brighter than in the summer haze, and a bowl of hot shurpa after a walk is the best thing that can happen to a traveller. Here is how to fit mountains and cities into a single week.
What the winter weather is like
From December to February, daytime temperatures in Tashkent and Samarkand are usually between 0 and +8°C, with frosts at night. Bukhara is drier and often sunnier. Snow does not fall in the cities every year and melts quickly, but in the Western Tian Shan mountains it lies reliably. Days are short, so plan sightseeing for the first half of the day.
Day-by-day plan
| Day | Where | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Tashkent | arrival, Chorsu Bazaar, metro, Hazrati Imam |
| 2–3 | Amirsoy or Chimgan | skiing, snowboarding, snow walks |
| 4–5 | Samarkand | Registan, Gur-e-Amir, Shah-i-Zinda |
| 6–7 | Bukhara | old town, trading domes, the Ark |
Day 1. Tashkent
Use the first day to settle in. Visit Chorsu Bazaar for dried fruit and nuts, ride the decorated metro and see the Hazrati Imam complex with its ancient Quran. In the evening, have plov, which is cooked especially rich in winter.
Days 2–3. Mountains: Amirsoy and Chimgan
The ski resorts are in the Bostanlyk district, 70–90 km from Tashkent. The road goes through Chirchik; the Tashkent — Chirchik route is handy if you plan to travel in stages, and from there a local taxi will take you up into the mountains.
- Amirsoy is a modern resort with gondolas, groomed slopes of different levels, equipment rental and a ski school for beginners. You can spend half a day or several days here.
- Chimgan is the country's oldest mountain resort, with simpler lifts and an old-school atmosphere. People come for cheaper skiing and walks on the slopes.
The season usually runs from mid-December to March but depends on snow, so check slope conditions before you go. Ski pass and rental prices change; confirm them on the resort's website or on site.
Even if you do not ski, ride up anyway: the views of snowy ridges and the frozen Charvak reservoir are worth it.
Days 4–5. Samarkand without crowds
Samarkand is about 300 km from Tashkent, 4–4.5 hours by road or 2–2.5 hours by high-speed train. Shared rides on the Tashkent — Samarkand route run every day, in winter too.
The big bonus of winter is a Registan without queues or crowds at the entrance. See:
- The Registan, especially beautiful after a rare snowfall.
- Gur-e-Amir, warm and quiet inside.
- Shah-i-Zinda, the street of mausoleums where in winter you can stand in front of the majolica for as long as you like.
- Siab Bazaar, which in winter sells dried fruit, nuts, halva and hot bread.
Days 6–7. Bukhara
From Samarkand to Bukhara is about 270 km and 3.5–4 hours on the Samarkand — Bukhara route. Winter Bukhara means empty lanes, smoke rising from tandoor ovens and teahouses full of locals.
What to see: the Poi-Kalyan ensemble, the Ark, Lyabi-Hauz, the trading domes and the Samanid Mausoleum. Getting back to Tashkent is easy by high-speed train or a shared ride.
What to eat in winter
- Halim, a thick porridge of wheat and meat, cooked for hours and eaten hot in the morning.
- Naryn, a cold dish of finely cut noodles and horse meat, especially popular in Tashkent.
- Shurpa and mastava, hot soups that warm you up best after a walk.
- Plov, traditionally served at lunchtime in Tashkent.
What to pack
- A warm jacket, hat and gloves: old monuments and windy squares are cold.
- Comfortable waterproof shoes, as streets can be slushy after snow.
- For the mountains, thermal layers and sunglasses.
- Cash for small expenses in the mountains.
Practical tips
- Heating. In guesthouses in the old cities, ask when booking whether there is proper heating.
- Prices. Many hotels lower rates in winter, but demand rises over the New Year holidays and at the resorts, so book ahead.
- Roads. Mountain roads can close temporarily after heavy snow. Check the forecast before setting out.
- Opening hours. Monuments may keep shorter hours in winter, so check on site.
Getting around
For the mountains and short transfers, shared rides are convenient: in the Yo'ldosh app you can book a seat with a verified driver, pick your time and save compared with a taxi. The main routes for the week are Tashkent — Chirchik, Tashkent — Samarkand and Samarkand — Bukhara. Other options are in the list of routes.
Cover photo: Donatas Dabravolskas, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.
