Ziyarat Tourism: A Route Through Uzbekistan's Holy Places

Ziyarat means a visit to holy places: mausoleums, mosques and the graves of people renowned for their piety or knowledge. For many believers it is a chance to pray and reflect; for others it is a way to see a living tradition. Uzbekistan offers a rare concentration of shrines. Below is a route through three centres, Bukhara, Samarkand and Termez, with practical advice.

Bukhara: the heart of the Sufi tradition

Bukhara is called the Noble for its many shrines and schools. On the outskirts of the city stands the memorial complex of Bahauddin Naqshband, founder of the Naqshbandi order, about 12 kilometres from the centre. Pilgrims arrive here from across the country and abroad. In the city itself, see the Ismail Samani mausoleum, one of the oldest surviving structures, the Chashma-Ayub spring and Chor-Minor. It is best to treat these places as living sites, not only as architectural monuments.

Beyond the city you can go to Gijduvan, to the mausoleum of Abdulkhaliq Gijduvani, a spiritual guide on whose tradition Naqshband drew.

Samarkand: necropolis and scholars

In Samarkand the first stop is Shah-i-Zinda, an ensemble of mausoleums of the 11th to 15th centuries climbing a staircase uphill. According to tradition, Qusam ibn Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet, is buried here. Next see the Gur-Emir mausoleum, where Timur rests, and the Bibi-Khanym mosque. In the surroundings, about 25 kilometres away, is the memorial complex of Imam Bukhari, where the compiler of hadith is buried, and the Khoja Abdi Darun mausoleum. The tomb of St Daniel, on a slope above the Siab river, is revered by followers of several faiths.

Termez: the north of ancient Bactria

Termez is the southernmost point of the route, on the border with Afghanistan. Its main shrine is the mausoleum of Hakim al-Termizi, a famous thinker and theologian. Nearby stands the Sultan Saodat ensemble, a complex of the 11th to 17th centuries with mausoleums of descendants of the Prophet. Termez also has many Buddhist monuments, so the route can be doubled up as both religious and historical. More: Samarkand — Termez.

Building the trip

1. Start in Bukhara: 2 days for the city and surroundings.
2. Bukhara to Samarkand: about 270 kilometres, 3 to 4 hours. Description: Bukhara — Samarkand.
3. Samarkand: 2 to 3 days for the city and the Imam Bukhari memorial.
4. Samarkand to Termez: about 500 kilometres, usually 7 to 9 hours with stops. Better to leave early or break the journey with an overnight stay.
5. Termez: 1 to 2 days.

The whole thing takes about a week.

Etiquette at holy places

Good manners on a visit:

• Dress modestly: shoulders and knees covered. Women are advised to carry a headscarf.
• Remove your shoes where customary and, if you know the tradition, enter with your right foot.
• Speak quietly, do not laugh loudly, silence your phone.
• Do not photograph people at prayer or reading the Quran without permission.
• Friday, especially around midday prayer, is the busiest time.
• If in doubt, ask the caretaker, who will tell you what is and is not allowed.
• Leave a donation if you wish; there is no fixed amount.

Holidays and seasons

Shrines can be visited in any season, but spring and autumn are more comfortable for the temperature. During religious holidays the flow of pilgrims rises sharply and transport and lodging are busy. Check dates in advance and book accommodation.

Transport

Trains and buses run between Bukhara, Samarkand and Termez, but a shrine route often requires leaving the main lines, for example to Naqshband or the Imam Bukhari mausoleum. For these legs a shared ride is handy: on Yo'ldosh you can find a driver heading your way and book a single seat. It is cheaper than a taxi and does not tie you to a timetable. It helps most on the long Samarkand to Termez stretch, where changes are tiring.

What to pack

• Light, covering clothes and a scarf.
• A water bottle and a hat for open courtyards.
• Spare footwear or socks if you have to take shoes off.
• Cash for donations and small expenses.
• Copies of your documents: checks are possible in the south.

Take a look at all routes and the for passengers section to prepare your trip in advance.

Cover photo: Amirkhanwaligb, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.