Jizzakh to Samarkand: Through Tamerlane's Gate
The road between two regional capitals through a famous gorge with ancient inscriptions: transport options, travel time and where to stop safely for photos.
Jizzakh and Samarkand are only about 100 km apart, and most people cover the distance without looking up from their phones. That is a shame, because on this stretch the M39 runs through one of the best-known places on the old route from the steppes into Transoxiana: a narrow rocky gorge called Tamerlane's Gate. Here is how the road works, how long it takes and how to see the gate without creating danger on the highway.
Distance and time
- Distance: about 100 km.
- By car: an hour and a half, or about 2 hours with a stop at the gate.
- By train: about an hour, depending on the train.
The road is good, multi-lane and open all year. Expect traffic approaching Samarkand, especially in the evening and at weekends.
What Tamerlane's Gate is
South-west of Jizzakh, the mountains of the Nuratau range and the spurs of the Turkestan range almost meet, leaving a narrow passage. Since ancient times the road from the northern steppes to Samarkand ran through this gorge, and whoever controlled the passage controlled the route. The local name of the gorge is Ilan-Utti, meaning 'the snake crawled through', and it came to be called Tamerlane's Gate because of its links to the era of Amir Timur.
Inscriptions carved on the orders of rulers survive on the rocks: one is linked to Ulugbek and dates from the 15th century, another from the 16th century, the time of Abdullah Khan. They tell of military campaigns that passed through here. Today it is one of the most recognisable places on the way between Tashkent and Samarkand.
Where to stop for photos
The highway goes straight through the gorge, and many people are tempted to pull over on the hard shoulder. Do not do it: traffic is fast, the shoulders are narrow and trucks travel in close convoys.
How to do it safely:
- Stop only at proper pull-offs and lay-bys. There are usually areas near the gate where you can pull in.
- Do not cross the highway on foot. If an interesting rock is on the other side, photograph it from a safe spot.
- Agree with the driver in advance. On a shared ride or taxi, mention when booking that you would like a 10–15 minute stop.
- The best light for photos is in the morning or the afternoon, when the sun lights the cliffs from the side.
The rock inscriptions are not right by the highway. If you want to see them, ask your driver or locals how to approach safely, and do not climb the rocks unprepared.
Transport
Train
Trains run between Jizzakh and Samarkand, the same ones that link Tashkent with Samarkand and the south. Not all high-speed trains stop in Jizzakh, so check the timetable for your train. The train is the fastest option, but you will not really see the gate, as the railway follows its own route.
Minibuses and shared taxis
Minibuses and cars to Samarkand leave from Jizzakh bus station. In addition, many cars travelling from Tashkent to Samarkand pick up passengers in Jizzakh.
Shared rides
If you want to leave at a specific time and perhaps stop at the gate, booking a seat with a driver heading your way is convenient. On Yo'ldosh you see the departure time, price per seat and driver profile, and drivers are verified. Trips are on the Jizzakh — Samarkand and Samarkand — Jizzakh pages.
Comparison
| Option | Time | The gate | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Train | about 1 h | not visible | fast, on schedule |
| Minibus | 2 h | from the window | cheap, no stops on request |
| Shared ride | 1.5–2 h | a stop can be arranged | flexible time |
| Taxi | 1.5–2 h | stop when you like | more expensive |
Prices change, so check before you travel.
Arriving in Samarkand
If you are travelling by car, agree on a drop-off point. Convenient options:
- Registan square and the centre of the old town;
- the Siab bazaar and Bibi-Khanym mosque area;
- the railway station, if you are changing to a train;
- a specific hotel.
The way back: Samarkand to Jizzakh
In the opposite direction it is the same: about an hour and a half on the M39, with the gate halfway. If you are continuing to Zaamin or Aydarkul, leave Samarkand in the morning so you arrive in daylight.
Tips
- On weekend evenings there are jams entering Samarkand, so allow extra time.
- There are many speed cameras and checkpoints at the regional border, so keep your passport with you.
- The gorge is hot and dry in summer, so bring water if you plan a walk.
- Before leaving Jizzakh, try the local samsa; it is famous across the country.
The bottom line
Jizzakh to Samarkand is an hour and a half on the M39 through Tamerlane's Gate, where the road to Samarkand has run for centuries. You can stop for photos, but only in safe places. Trips in both directions are on the Jizzakh — Samarkand and Samarkand — Jizzakh pages, and other destinations are in the routes section.
Cover photo: Solijon Solayev, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons.
