Gijduvan: ceramics, kebab and the Gijduvani mausoleum

Gijduvan is a town in the Bukhara region, about 40 to 50 kilometres north-east of Bukhara itself. For many travellers it is a pleasant half-day outing: three interests meet here, ceramic workshops, a famous kebab and the mausoleum of one of the spiritual teachers of medieval Central Asia. If you have already been to Bukhara and want to see its surroundings, Gijduvan deserves attention.

How to get there

The road from Bukhara to Gijduvan takes about an hour by car. The highway is flat and paved, crossing cotton fields and small villages. Minibuses and taxis run, but it is more convenient to travel with a driver who will agree to wait for you on site and bring you back to Bukhara, or to use a shared ride. See trips on the Bukhara to Gijduvan and Gijduvan to Bukhara pages. In the Yo'ldosh app you can book a seat with a driver heading your way and share costs with fellow passengers.

Gijduvan ceramics

Gijduvan is known for a school of pottery that is valued by craftsmen across the country. Unlike the brighter wares of the Fergana Valley, local ceramics are usually restrained: green and dark blue glazes, strict ornament, often with plant motifs and birds. The workshops run as small family businesses, and some receive visitors. You can watch a potter at the wheel, see how vessels are shaped and fired, and then choose what you like.

What to bring back:

• Plates and dishes, decorative or for the table;
• Jugs and bowls, compact and light;
• Small souvenirs that do not fear the road.

Before buying, check the price and ask how to pack the piece. Ceramics are fragile, so tight packing helps on the road. Prices depend on size and complexity of the painting, so bargain politely.

The Mausoleum of Abdulkhalik Gijduvani

The town's main shrine is the mausoleum of Khoja Abdulkhalik Gijduvani, a twelfth-century spiritual teacher regarded as the founder of an influential Sufi brotherhood. The complex draws pilgrims from across the country. It is modest in size but has an atmosphere of quiet and respect. Dress accordingly: shoulders and knees covered, and women should bring a scarf. Behave calmly and respectfully, do not make noise and do not photograph people at prayer without permission.

The Ulugh Beg Madrasa

The town has a madrasa built in the fifteenth century under Ulugh Beg. Here you can see the characteristic architecture of the Timurid era. The building has not survived complete, but its plan is easy to read. Check whether it is open, as visiting arrangements can change.

Kebab and local food

Gijduvan kebab is famous among Bukharans: they say the meat is especially juicy and aromatic here. Try lamb kebab with onions and fresh flatbread. In addition, tea houses cook plov, lagman and samsa. It is best to have lunch where there are many customers, since meat sells fast there and is always fresh. Prices are moderate, but confirm when ordering.

How to spend half a day

1. Morning. Leave Bukhara and arrive in Gijduvan around nine or ten o'clock.
2. First part of the day. The Gijduvani mausoleum and a stroll through the centre.
3. Midday. Ceramic workshops: watch, talk to the masters, choose purchases.
4. Lunch. Kebab at a tea house.
5. Afternoon. The madrasa or the bazaar, then the return to Bukhara.

If you have a whole day, add a trip through nearby villages or a stop by the canals.

Practical tips

• Carry cash: workshops and small tea houses often do not take cards.
• In the hot months leave early and bring water.
• Ask permission before photographing craftsmen at work.
• Plan the way back before dark.
• If you buy ceramics, check for cracks and ask for them to be wrapped.

When to go

Spring and autumn are best. Summer is hot and winter cool, but the town works all year round.

Plan your trip

To book a seat, open the Bukhara to Gijduvan or Gijduvan to Bukhara page. Other directions are in all routes. Drivers who regularly travel to the Bukhara region will find the for drivers page useful.

Cover photo: Umid1108, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.