The Mountains Around Urgut: Villages, Springs and Trails
Urgut is known for its huge bazaar, but above town lie orchards, ancient plane trees, springs and Zarafshan range trails, an hour from Samarkand.
Most visitors to Samarkand come to Urgut for the bazaar, bargain over suzani embroidery and head back by lunchtime. That is a shame: the town sits right at the foot of the Zarafshan range, and just a couple of kilometres higher the noise of the market gives way to babbling irrigation channels, while the rows of fabric are replaced by walnut groves, orchards and trails along which shepherds drive their flocks to summer pastures. Here is what to see in the mountains around Urgut and how to spend a calm day in nature.
Where Urgut is
Urgut is a district centre in Samarkand region, about 35–40 km southeast of Samarkand. The drive takes around an hour. The town stretches along the foothills; to the south rise the slopes of the Zarafshan range, which separates the Samarkand valley from Kashkadarya.
The easiest way there is the Samarkand — Urgut route. There are plenty of trips, especially on market-day mornings when both buyers and sellers head to Urgut.
Chor-Chinor: ancient plane trees and a spring
Urgut's main natural landmark is the Chor-Chinor garden on the southern edge of town. Huge old oriental plane trees grow here, some of them said to be many centuries old. Locals say a whole room once fitted inside one hollow trunk. Next to them are a mosque, a spring and a pond with fish that nobody catches, as they are considered sacred.
Chor-Chinor is a place of pilgrimage and family outings, so dress modestly and keep your voice down. In summer it is several degrees cooler in the shade of the plane trees than in town.
Orchards and villages above town
Orchards spread above Urgut: apricots, cherries, apples and, highest of all, walnuts. Small villages climb along the streams, and the road served by local transport soon turns to gravel.
What makes it interesting:
- blossom in late March and April, when the slopes turn white and pink;
- the cherry harvest in June, sold right by the roadside;
- walnuts and dried fruit in autumn, which are also one of the specialities of the Urgut bazaar.
The villages are small communities where everyone knows everyone. If you have walked far and need directions or water, ask an older person; they will certainly help.
Springs and trails
The mountains around Urgut have many springs. Some have a pipe and a bench; others have small shrines that local people visit. Trails lead up the gullies to the pastures and passes of the Zarafshan range.
Walking options:
- Easy (2–3 hours). From the upper neighbourhoods along a stream to the nearest spring and back. Good for families.
- Moderate (half a day). Up through orchards and walnut groves to a ridge overlooking the Samarkand valley. On a clear day you can see far to the north.
- Hard (a full day or more). To the high pastures and passes. Only with a guide: there are no waymarks, the weather changes fast and there is no signal.
Note that part of the land above town is pasture and private plots. Stay on existing paths, do not climb over fences and close gates behind you.
When to go
| Month | What it is like |
|---|---|
| March to April | blossom, fresh weather, possibly muddy trails |
| May to June | the best walking weather, cherries |
| July to August | hot below, walk early in the morning |
| September to October | walnuts, autumn colours, mild weather |
In winter there is snow in the mountains and the gravel roads get slippery, so it is not the best time for walks.
Combining it with the bazaar
The most convenient plan is to arrive in the morning, spend the first hours at the market while it is in full swing, then go up to Chor-Chinor and on to a trail. Have lunch at a teahouse in town and return to Samarkand by evening. The bazaar is busiest at weekends; check the market days before you go.
Practical tips
- Wear shoes with a good grip: the trails are rocky and turn to clay after rain.
- Bring water and snacks, as the upper villages have almost no shops.
- Carry cash; cards are not accepted in the mountains.
- A hat, and a headscarf for women, will be useful at shrines.
- Get back before dark, because few cars use the gravel roads in the evening.
From Samarkand
A shared ride is a convenient way to reach Urgut: on Yo'ldosh drivers publish trips on the Samarkand — Urgut route, and you book a seat in the app. It is cheaper than a taxi for the whole day, and it is easy to find a morning departure so you have time for both the bazaar and the mountains. If you are coming from Tashkent, see other options in the routes section.
Cover photo: Arina Pan, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.
