How to get to the Sarmishsay petroglyphs from Navoi
A gorge with thousands of rock carvings an hour from Navoi: how to get there, what to expect on the dirt road and how not to get stranded on the way back.
Sarmishsay is a narrow gorge in the Karatau hills north-east of Navoi, where thousands of ancient images are carved into dark rock. Ibex, bulls, deer, hunting scenes and strange figures — the oldest carvings are attributed to the Bronze Age, while later ones were left by nomads and shepherds right up to medieval times. It is one of the largest collections of petroglyphs in Central Asia, yet it sees few tourists. The reason is simple: no public transport goes there, so you have to plan the trip yourself.
Where the gorge is
Sarmishsay lies about 30–40 km from Navoi, in Navbahor district. The drive takes 40–60 minutes: most of it on asphalt through villages and fields, the last few kilometres on a dirt road along a dry riverbed into the gorge.
The starting point is almost always Navoi, so you need to get there first.
Getting to Navoi
Navoi sits on the main highway between Samarkand and Bukhara, so it is easy to reach from either side.
- From Bukhara — about 100 km, an hour and a half. Drivers regularly travel the Bukhara — Navoi route on Yo'ldosh: you book a seat in the app and pay only for yourself.
- From Samarkand — about 170 km, roughly 2.5 hours. There are trips on Samarkand — Navoi every day too.
- By train — trains between Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara stop in Navoi. The station is within the city; take a taxi to the centre.
If you travel by shared ride, ask the driver to drop you somewhere convenient — near a taxi stand or in the centre, where it is easier to find a car to Sarmishsay.
From Navoi to the gorge
There are few options here, and all of them involve a car:
- A taxi that waits. The most practical way. Agree that the driver will take you to the gorge, wait 2–3 hours and bring you back. Settle the price for the whole round trip up front, including waiting time.
- Your own or a rented car. The road to the gorge is easy, but the final section is a rocky dirt track. In dry weather an ordinary car will make it if you drive slowly. After rain, do not take the risk.
- An organised tour. You can find tours in Navoi and Bukhara, sometimes combined with Nurata and Aydarkul.
Do not go without arranging the return: there is no transport or taxi in the gorge, and mobile signal drops in places.
The last few kilometres
The dirt road runs along the floor of the gorge, beside a dry riverbed. A few tips for the driver:
- stick to the well-worn track and do not drive into the sand by the riverbed;
- do not come after heavy rain — the riverbed can fill with water and the clay sections become slippery;
- park so that you do not block the way for others.
The petroglyphs begin almost at the entrance to the gorge and stretch along the slopes for several kilometres. To see the most interesting groups you will have to walk over rocks.
How to see the petroglyphs
- Light is everything. At midday the carvings are almost invisible. The best time is morning and evening, when low-angled light picks out the engraved lines.
- Look up. Many images are not at eye level but higher up the slope, on smooth rock faces.
- Do not touch the carvings. Never outline them in chalk, pour water on them for contrast or scratch your own marks nearby. The petroglyphs have survived thousands of years but are vulnerable to people.
- Bring binoculars — they make it easier to spot carvings on distant rocks.
When to go
| Season | Conditions |
|---|---|
| March–May | the best time: warm, green slopes |
| June–August | heat above 40 °C, hard going on the rocks |
| September–October | mild weather, good light |
| November–February | cold and windy, but no other visitors at all |
If you do go in summer, leave Navoi at dawn and head back before noon.
What to bring
- Plenty of water: there is nowhere to get any in the gorge.
- Closed shoes with a good sole — the rocks are sharp, and snakes and scorpions can hide in the grass and under stones.
- A hat and sunscreen.
- Cash for the driver and for an entry fee, if one is charged.
- A snack: there are no shops or cafes in the gorge.
Fitting Sarmishsay into your route
The gorge fits neatly into a journey between Samarkand and Bukhara. A one-day plan: reach Navoi in the morning, visit Sarmishsay by taxi during the day, and continue your journey by evening. If you have two or three days, add Nurata and the yurt camps by Aydarkul.
Another option is to spend a night in Navoi. The city is small and calm, and early the next morning you can reach the gorge in the best light and before the heat.
The bottom line
The Sarmishsay petroglyphs are a rare chance to see ancient art without the crowds. The key is to arrange in advance who will drive you from Navoi to the gorge and back. Getting to Navoi itself is easiest by shared ride: see Bukhara — Navoi and Samarkand — Navoi, and find other destinations on the routes page.
Cover photo: Bruce Allardice, CC BY-SA 2.0, Wikimedia Commons.
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