Kattakurgan: the town by the Uzbek Sea

Kattakurgan is a town in the Samarkand region, about 60 to 70 kilometres north-west of Samarkand, on the highway to Navoi and Bukhara. Many drive through without stopping, but if you are travelling between those cities you can spare an hour or two for a rest by the water. Locals call the large Kattakurgan Reservoir the Uzbek Sea, and for a dry country the place really does look unusual.

How to get there

From Samarkand to Kattakurgan it is about an hour on a good highway. The road is flat and crosses cotton fields and small villages. Minibuses, commuter trains and buses run, and a car is faster. Shared rides suit those travelling light who want to split costs: see trips on the Kattakurgan to Samarkand page. In the Yo'ldosh app you can book a seat and see the driver's profile and departure time.

The reservoir

The Kattakurgan Reservoir was built in the middle of the twentieth century on the Zeravshan river for irrigation. It is large, with a wide expanse of water, and on a hot day it really does feel as if you are at the sea. There are places for relaxing, fishing and picnics. Many come at weekends to swim, eat fish and sit in the shade.

What to know:

• Swimming. Find out where it is allowed and do not swim far. Banks may be uneven in depth.
• Fish. Lakeside eateries cook fish from the reservoir. It is fresh, but check how it is fried and choose places with many customers.
• Season. It is best to come from May to September, in warm weather. Spring and autumn are quieter but windy.
• Litter. Take away everything you bring: the reservoir needs careful treatment.

The bazaar and town life

Kattakurgan's city bazaar is small but good. It sells vegetables, fruit, flatbread, samsa and meat. Try the Samarkand bread baked in a tandoor: it is crisp, fragrant and stays fresh for a long time. At the bazaar you can buy dried fruit and nuts for the road.

The town is also known for its many old orchards and small workshops. A walk through the centre takes about an hour: you will see residential districts, mosques and tea houses.

Stops on the road between Samarkand and Navoi

If you travel from Samarkand to Navoi or Bukhara, Kattakurgan is a natural stop:

1. Lunch. Tea houses along the highway offer plov, shashlik, lagman and fish.
2. A rest by the water. A short walk along the reservoir shore helps you stretch your legs.
3. Fuel and shopping. The town has fuel stations, shops and pharmacies.

From Kattakurgan it is about 100 kilometres to Navoi and around 200 to Bukhara. The road crosses steppe, and in hot weather it is better to leave early in the morning.

Who this stop is for

• Travellers between cities. A stop helps to break up the road.
• Families. The shore suits a light day out in nature.
• Fishing fans. Many come to angle.
• Those who want to see an ordinary Uzbek town. There are no museums or mausoleums here, but there is everyday life.

Practical tips

• Carry cash: small eateries do not always take cards.
• For swimming bring a change of clothes and a towel.
• In the heat do not forget water and a hat.
• On the highway between the cities observe speed limits: there are many trucks.
• Check current prices at cafes and beaches, as they change with the season.

When to go

The most comfortable time is May to September. In autumn the air is clear and the water cools. In winter the place is empty and it is cold to sit by the water.

Plan your trip

To reach Kattakurgan or return to Samarkand, open the Kattakurgan to Samarkand page. Other directions are in all routes. Drivers travelling along this highway will find the for drivers page useful.

Cover photo: Дмитрий Караев, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons.