Lyabi-Hauz and Its Ensemble: The Heart of Evening Bukhara

Every city has a place people go to without any particular purpose: to sit, drink tea and watch the world go by. In Bukhara that place is Lyabi-Hauz. The name means "by the pond", and that says it all: a rectangular pool with stone banks, ancient mulberry trees, teahouses on terraces and three 16th- and 17th-century monuments around it. By day tour groups pass through; in the evening the square becomes the shared living room of the old city.

Bukhara's ponds: why they mattered

Until the 20th century Bukhara had no piped water, and the city depended on a network of canals and dozens of hauz, or reservoir ponds. People drew water from them for drinking, household needs and ablutions. The ponds are what made hot Bukhara liveable. But standing water also spread disease, and in Soviet times almost all the ponds were filled in. Lyabi-Hauz is one of the few that survived, and today its water flows and is refreshed.

The pond was dug in 1620 on the orders of Nadir Divan-Begi, vizier to the khan of Bukhara. A city legend surrounds its construction: the plot the vizier needed supposedly belonged to an elderly woman who refused to sell. The vizier is said to have dug a channel under her house, and once the water started undermining it, she agreed to the deal. Guides love telling such stories; treat them as folklore.

The Kukeldash Madrasa

On the north side of the ensemble stands the Kukeldash Madrasa, the largest in Bukhara. It was built in 1568-1569 by the nobleman Kulbaba Kukeldash. Its imposing portal, long facades with two tiers of student cells and massive corner towers give an impression of austere strength. Inside is a spacious courtyard; over time it has housed classrooms, workshops and museum displays. The current use of the rooms may change, so check on site.

The Nadir Divan-Begi Khanaka

On the west side, right above the water, stands the Nadir Divan-Begi Khanaka, built at the same time as the pond. A khanaka is a Sufi lodge, a place for prayer gatherings and lodging for wandering dervishes. Its tall portal and domed hall are reflected in the pond, which makes this probably the signature photograph of Lyabi-Hauz.

The Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasa and its fantastic birds

On the east side is the Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasa of 1622. The building was originally conceived as a caravanserai and later converted into a madrasa. Its most famous feature is the portal mosaic: two fantastic birds resembling the simurgh carry white does in their talons as they fly towards a sun with a human face. Depicting living creatures on the facade of a religious building is very rare in Islamic art, which is exactly why the portal is so celebrated.

In the warm season the madrasa courtyard often hosts evening folklore programmes with music, dance and displays of traditional dress. Schedules and formats change, so check in advance.

Khoja Nasreddin and the mulberry trees

On the square between the pond and the madrasa stands a statue of Khoja Nasreddin on his donkey, the beloved hero of countless Eastern anecdotes. Almost everyone stops for a photo with him. Above the water lean old mulberry trees whose age is counted in centuries. Their twisted trunks and shade are an essential part of the atmosphere: in summer it is several degrees cooler beneath them than on the open square.

Evening life by the water

The loveliest time at Lyabi-Hauz is from sunset until late evening:

• the lights come on and the madrasa facades are mirrored in the pond;
• the teahouse terraces serve green tea, plov, shashlik, samsa and flatbread;
• local families stroll with their children and old men sit on the benches;
• souvenir stalls all around sell suzani, ceramics, knives and skullcaps.

Prices at cafes right on the pond are usually higher than a couple of blocks away. If you are watching your budget, have dinner a little further off and come to the pond for tea. A pot of green tea on a terrace overlooking the illuminated pond is an inexpensive and perhaps the best way to end a day in Bukhara, especially after a long walk through the old city.

Practical tips

1. The square is free to enter. The madrasas may sell tickets for exhibitions or evening shows; prices are approximate.
2. Come early in the morning for photos without people, and in the evening for atmosphere.
3. In summer mosquitoes by the water can be a nuisance, so bring repellent.
4. Lyabi-Hauz is a handy starting point: the trading domes, Magoki-Attari and Po-i-Kalyan are all 5-10 minutes' walk away.
5. Many old-town guesthouses are a few minutes' walk away, so staying nearby is convenient.

Getting here from Samarkand

Bukhara and Samarkand are the country's most popular pair of cities, about 270 km apart. By car the drive via Navoi takes roughly three and a half to four hours. You can take the train, or book one seat in a shared ride: on Yo'ldosh drivers publish trips in advance and you pick a time that suits you. Leave after lunch and by evening you will be sitting with tea by the pond.

Trips are on the Samarkand - Bukhara route page, and other directions are in the routes section.

Cover photo: Arian Zwegers, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons.