Lesser-Known Samarkand: Ak-Saray, Rukhabad and Ishratkhona

In high season tourist Samarkand can be noisy: queues for photos at the Registan, a dense stream of groups at Shah-i-Zinda. Yet step a few hundred metres off the main routes and you will find Timurid monuments where you can stand in silence on your own. Ak-Saray, Rukhabad and Ishratkhona are three such places. Each is interesting in its own way, and together they make a peaceful half-day walk.

Rukhabad: a mystic's mausoleum opposite Gur-e-Amir

Rukhabad stands just a few minutes' walk from Gur-e-Amir, on the same quiet street. The name translates as "abode of the spirit". The mausoleum was built in the late 14th century, under Amir Timur, over the grave of the Sufi sheikh Burhaneddin Sagardji. According to tradition, the sheikh preached for many years in the East, and after his death his remains were brought to Samarkand.

The building is very plain and austere: a cube of fired brick, a tall drum and a dome with almost no cladding. After the splendour of Gur-e-Amir, this restraint makes a strong impression; this is what architecture looked like before it was dressed in tiles. A legend says a casket containing hairs of the Prophet was buried with the sheikh. People tell it gladly, though of course there is no proof.

Today souvenir workshops operate inside and around the mausoleum, but the atmosphere remains calm. It is a good place to understand what Timur's Samarkand looked like before the gold and mosaics.

Ak-Saray: the golden dome behind Gur-e-Amir

Walk a little further from Gur-e-Amir, behind its rear wall, and you will reach the small Ak-Saray mausoleum, the "White Palace". From outside it is unremarkable: blank walls, no portal, no cladding at all. Many people walk past without suspecting what is inside.

Inside, however, is one of the most beautiful painted interiors in Samarkand. The dome and walls are covered with ornament in the kundal technique: raised patterns with gilding on a blue and terracotta background. The decoration has been restored, and on a sunny day, when light falls inside, the gold seems to shimmer. The mausoleum was built in the second half of the 15th century and is believed to hold members of the Timurid dynasty, though historians still debate exactly who.

Access can be limited: sometimes the mausoleum is closed or opened only by arrangement with the caretaker. If the doors are shut, ask in the nearby shops or at the Gur-e-Amir security post. If there is an entry fee, it is approximately small - check on site.

Ishratkhona: the ruins of a "house of joy"

Ishratkhona lies in the eastern part of the old city, not far from the Khoja Abdi Darun ensemble. It is perhaps Samarkand's most mysterious monument. The name is usually translated as "house of joy" or "house of pleasure", which sounds odd for a mausoleum. One theory explains it as a corruption of another word; another links it to the building's beauty.

Ishratkhona was built in 1464, commissioned by the wife of a Timurid ruler. Women and children of the Timurid dynasty were buried here. The building was richly decorated with mosaics and muqarnas vaults, but a strong earthquake in the early 20th century brought down the dome. Today it is a domeless ruin, yet its plan is easy to read: a central hall, side rooms, an underground crypt, remains of carved vaults and blue tiles.

Ishratkhona is for those who love the atmosphere of ruins. You will rarely meet anyone here, and you can study the brickwork and fragments of decoration at leisure. The site is sometimes fenced off for restoration, so be ready to view it from outside.

Khoja Abdi Darun next door

Since you have come as far as Ishratkhona, step into the neighbouring Khoja Abdi Darun ensemble. It is a memorial complex over the grave of a revered jurist, with a pond, ancient plane trees, a mosque and a small madrasa. The place is very quiet and green; old men sit here, and in summer it is cool under the plane trees.

How to plan the walk

All four places combine easily into a 3-4 hour route:

1. Gur-e-Amir - the starting point, best in the morning.
2. Rukhabad - a few minutes' walk away.
3. Ak-Saray - behind the rear wall of Gur-e-Amir.
4. A taxi or a long walk east through old neighbourhoods, about 2-3 km.
5. Ishratkhona and Khoja Abdi Darun - the end of the route.

Practical tips:

• wear modest clothing: Rukhabad and Khoja Abdi Darun are revered places;
• bring water, as there are few cafes in the eastern part of the old city;
• midday is best for photographing the Ak-Saray interior, while soft evening light suits the ruins of Ishratkhona;
• spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons; in summer, go before 11 a.m.

Who this route suits

This route works well for a second or third day in Samarkand, once the main monuments are done. Photographers, architecture lovers and anyone tired of crowds will enjoy it. If you only have one day, see the Registan, Gur-e-Amir and Shah-i-Zinda first, and catch Ak-Saray on the way.

Next stop: Bukhara

After Samarkand many travellers head to Bukhara. The cities are about 270 km apart, roughly three and a half to four hours by car. Besides the train, a convenient choice is a shared ride through Yo'ldosh: you book one seat in a verified driver's car, pay less than for a whole taxi and choose your departure time. You can walk to Rukhabad and Ak-Saray in the morning and leave after lunch.

Find trips on the Samarkand - Bukhara route page, and passenger tips in the for passengers section.

Cover photo: Hari K Patibanda, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons.