Nukus to Beruni: reaching the fortresses of Ellikkala

Beruni is a small town in Karakalpakstan named after the scholar Abu Rayhan al-Biruni, who lived in Khorezm more than a thousand years ago. For tourists it matters above all as the starting point for Ellikkala, a group of ancient desert fortresses scattered across the surrounding area. The route to Ayaz-Kala, Toprak-Kala and other monuments begins here, and this is the easiest place to organise a one-day trip by car.

How to get there

From Nukus

It is about 90 to 120 kilometres from Nukus to Beruni, and the drive takes roughly an hour and a half to two hours by car. The road runs through flat country along the Amu Darya, past villages and irrigated fields. The surface is mostly fine, but some sections have roadworks and rough patches. Summer temperatures climb above forty degrees, so leave early in the morning.

From Urgench

Urgench is the nearest large city to Beruni on the Khorezm side. It is about 100 to 130 kilometres from Beruni, and the drive takes around two hours. Many tourists base themselves in Khiva or Urgench and come here for a day. If you are staying in Khiva, get up early: the trip from Khiva to the fortresses and back takes the whole day.

Minibuses, taxis and shared rides

Minibuses and buses run from Nukus and Urgench to Beruni; they are inexpensive and suit independent travel. But for visiting the fortresses scheduled transport does not work: you need a car that waits for you and moves between sites. It is often better to agree with a driver for the whole day or join fellow passengers. Through the Yo'ldosh app you can find a trip to Beruni itself and then hire a car on the spot. See the trips on Nukus to Beruni, Beruni to Nukus and Urgench to Beruni.

What Ellikkala is

Ellikkala means fifty fortresses in Karakalpak. It is the name of the region north and east of Beruni, where the remains of ancient cities and fortifications survive in the desert. They belong to the era of ancient Khorezm and later pre-Islamic periods. The best-known places:

• Ayaz-Kala: three fortresses on hills, the tallest of which is visible from afar. From here the boundless Kyzylkum desert opens out.
• Toprak-Kala: the remains of a royal residence with a large complex of rooms.
• Kyzyl-Kala: the red fortress, with well-preserved mudbrick walls.

You can read more about all three monuments in our separate article on the fortress route.

How to organise the day

A typical day by car looks like this:

1. Leave Beruni early in the morning, before the heat.
2. See the first fortress, usually Ayaz-Kala.
3. Move on to the next and have a snack on site or at a yurt camp.
4. Return to Beruni by evening, before dark.

You can see the fortresses properly in 6 to 8 hours including the road. The distances between them are small, but dirt sections slow you down. Do not count on asphalt all the way.

Where to stay

Yurt camps near Ayaz-Kala let you stay overnight and wake up in the middle of the desert. It is a separate experience: silence, stars, sunrise over the fortress. Check prices and conditions in advance, as places go quickly in season.

Practical tips

• Water and sun protection: the desert does not forgive carelessness. Bring more water than seems necessary, a hat and sunscreen.
• Footwear: wear closed, comfortable shoes. The terrain is stony and uneven.
• Season: spring and autumn are best. In summer the heat spoils sightseeing, while winter is cold and windy.
• Cash: tickets to sites and yurt camp services are usually paid in cash. Prices change, so check before you go.
• Respect for monuments: do not climb the walls or take pottery shards away.

Plan your trip

Beruni is an excellent point from which to explore Khorezm's desert fortresses. To book a seat, open Nukus to Beruni, Beruni to Nukus or Urgench to Beruni. Other directions are in all routes. Drivers who regularly travel to Khorezm will find the for drivers page useful.

Cover photo: Ayzadarich, CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.