The Nuratau Mountains in 2–3 Days: Guesthouses and Trails
The villages of Sentyab, Asraf and Ukhum, nights with local families, walnut groves and trails between hamlets: a Nuratau route for seeing rural Uzbekistan up close.
Between Samarkand and the Kyzylkum desert runs the Nuratau ridge: modest, dry-looking mountains whose folds hide green villages. Centuries-old walnut trees grow here, streams run through the gorges and families welcome guests into their own homes. Sentyab, Asraf and Ukhum have long been known to travellers who want to see rural Uzbekistan without any staging. Two or three days are enough to walk a couple of trails, stay with a family and get a feel for the rhythm of village life.
Getting there
The gateway to the mountains is the small town of Nurata. The easiest approach is from Navoi: first along the Samarkand — Navoi highway, about 170 km and 2.5 hours, then roughly another 1.5 hours northeast to Nurata. From Nurata to the villages there are dirt and paved roads through the foothills; use a local taxi or arrange a pickup with your guesthouse host.
Many travellers combine Nuratau with a night in a yurt by Lake Aydarkul. They lie on opposite sides of the ridge, so the route gives you both mountains and desert.
Day 1. Nurata and up to Sentyab
In Nurata, start at the Chashma complex, a sacred spring of clear water full of fish that are never caught. On the hill above the spring are the remains of an ancient fortress that local tradition links to Alexander the Great. It is a good place to stretch your legs before the mountains.
Next comes Sentyab, a village strung out along a gorge, with houses of stone and clay, vegetable plots and walnut trees. Several guesthouses operate here, and it is the usual starting point for exploring Nuratau. In the evening your hosts lay out a dastarkhan spread: soup, tandoor bread, homemade jam and tea.
Day 2. Trails around Sentyab and on to Asraf
In the morning, walk up the gorge. What you can see:
- Walnut groves, with some trees very old and enormous.
- Petroglyphs: rock carvings of animals appear on boulders around Sentyab. Hosts usually know where to find them.
- Springs and orchards, good places for a rest.
Asraf is a neighbouring village with a waterfall and shady orchards. Walking or driving between villages takes anything from a few hours to a full day depending on the trail. Do not set off alone on an unfamiliar route: paths are barely marked and mobile coverage is patchy. It is better to hire a local guide, and your guesthouse can recommend one.
Day 3. Ukhum or the way down
Ukhum is another quiet, picturesque mountain village, ideal if you want one more day in the hills. If you are short of time, head back down and continue west. Bukhara is about 110 km from Navoi, or 1.5–2 hours on the Navoi — Bukhara route.
Route outline
| Day | Where | Travel time |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Samarkand, Navoi, Nurata, Sentyab | 5–6 hours with stops |
| 2 | Sentyab to Asraf | a few hours to a full day |
| 3 | Ukhum or onward to Bukhara | depends on your plan |
Times are approximate.
Guesthouses: what to expect
- Simple facilities. Clean and cosy, but not a hotel. The shower and toilet may be in the yard.
- Meals. Usually included, home cooking from whatever grows nearby.
- Payment. Usually cash. Prices are approximate and change, so confirm when booking.
- Booking. Get in touch ahead of time, especially in May and September. Find hosts' contacts through reputable tour operators and traveller reviews.
Nature and conservation
The Nuratau ridge is a protected area and home to the Severtsov argali, a wild mountain sheep. Seeing one is hard, but you may spot birds of prey and signs of wildlife. Do not litter, light fires in the woods or pick plants.
When to go
- April–May: the mountains turn green and orchards blossom.
- September–October: the walnut and apple harvest, with mild weather.
- Summer: cooler in the villages than on the plain, but hot on open slopes.
- Winter: roads can be difficult and guesthouses are often closed.
What to pack
- Hiking shoes and a daypack.
- Water, a hat and sunscreen.
- A warm layer, as mountain evenings are cool.
- Cash, a torch and a power bank.
- A small gift for your hosts, such as sweets or something from your country.
Etiquette
These are conservative rural families. Dress modestly, and ask before photographing people, especially women. Take your shoes off when entering a home. You can decline food, but do so politely, and at least try the tea and bread.
Getting between cities
Shared rides are a convenient way to reach Navoi and continue onward: in the Yo'ldosh app you can book a seat with a verified driver and leave when it suits you, cheaper than a taxi and free of timetables. The routes you need are Samarkand — Navoi and Navoi — Bukhara. For other cities, see the list of routes.
Cover photo: Carpodacus, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.
