The Registan: history, tickets and the best time for photos

The Registan is the heart of Samarkand and one of the most recognisable squares in Central Asia. Three enormous madrasas, faced with majolica and mosaic, form an ensemble that is hard to compare with anything else. The name Registan means sandy place: it was once a square where townspeople gathered, and in the Middle Ages royal decrees were proclaimed here and executions and festivals took place. Today it is the city's main symbol and the first thing travellers want to see.

The three madrasas

The ensemble took shape over two centuries, and each building has its own story.

• The Ulugh Beg Madrasa (1417-1420) is the oldest and lies to the west. It was built under Tamerlane's grandson, the astronomer and ruler Ulugh Beg. Mathematics, astronomy and theology were taught here. The facade is decorated with geometric ornament and star motifs, reflecting the founder's scientific interests.
• The Sher-Dor Madrasa (1619-1636) stands opposite Ulugh Beg and was built in the seventeenth century. The name means with lions: the portal shows predators chasing deer, and a sun with a human face. This is unusual because images of living creatures are rare in Islamic architecture.
• The Tilya-Kori Madrasa (1646-1660) is the latest and stands in the centre. The name means covered in gold. Inside is a mosque with gold decoration, considered one of the most beautiful interiors in the city.

Tickets and visiting hours

Entry to the Registan is paid. Prices and hours change, and for foreign guests prices are usually higher than for locals, so check current information at the ticket office or official sources. Tickets are sold at the box office by the entrance and sometimes online. Find out whether separate tickets are needed for Tilya-Kori or the viewing point. The complex is usually open from morning to evening, but in summer hours may be extended.

A checklist:

1. Take your passport, as it may be needed when buying a ticket.
2. Plan at least an hour to an hour and a half for a visit.
3. Dress modestly: inside Tilya-Kori there are living elements of religious life.

The best time for photos

The Registan is photogenic at any time, but light decides everything.

• Morning. The best time for calm shots. Early light is soft, tourists are few, and the majolica shimmers in blue and turquoise shades.
• Sunset. The facades warm up and golden light brings out the relief of the ornament. It is the most beautiful time but also the most crowded.
• Evening. After sunset the square is lit and the ensemble looks especially striking. Sometimes light shows take place, but check the schedule in advance.
• Midday. Bright sun flattens colour, and in summer the heat can be exhausting. If you must come then, retreat to the shade inside the courtyards.

Viewpoints: the square in front of the ensemble works well, where you can step back and fit all three buildings into the frame. Do not neglect details either: wood carving, tiles, inscriptions, arched niches.

How to avoid the crowds

• Come at opening. The first hour or two after opening are calmest.
• Choose weekdays rather than weekends.
• Avoid holiday days and peak season, which is spring and autumn.
• If you want beautiful evening shots, arrive an hour before sunset and stay until dark.

What is nearby

Near the Registan it is worth strolling the pedestrian street leading to the Bibi-Khanym Mosque and the Siab bazaar. There are many cafes, souvenir shops and small workshops here. If you are short of time, combine the Registan with the Bibi-Khanym Mosque and the Gur-Emir mausoleum.

How to get to Samarkand

Samarkand is linked to Tashkent by high-speed trains and a highway, and the trip takes roughly 2 to 4 hours depending on transport. Shared rides suit you when you need to leave at a convenient time: see trips on the Tashkent to Samarkand page. From Bukhara the road takes about three to four hours, with details on the Bukhara to Samarkand page. In the Yo'ldosh app you book one seat and see the driver's profile and departure time.

Practical tips

• Bring water and a hat: the square is very hot in summer with little shade.
• Wear comfortable shoes: the paving is uneven.
• Do not give in to pushy guides and photographers if you do not want their services.
• Watch your belongings in a crowd.
• Check current information on hours and prices before you visit.

Plan your trip

If you are going to Samarkand, open the Tashkent to Samarkand or Bukhara to Samarkand pages, and see other directions in all routes. Drivers who travel to Samarkand will find the for drivers page useful.

Cover photo: Bernard Gagnon, CC0, Wikimedia Commons.