Samarkand to Qarshi: via Kitab or via Jam

Samarkand and Qarshi are neighbouring regional capitals, but there is no straight road between them: the spurs of the Zeravshan range stand in the way. So drivers choose one of two roads. The western steppe road goes via Jam and is shorter and faster. The eastern mountain road climbs the Takhtakaracha pass, descends to Kitab and Shahrisabz, and from there follows the Kashkadarya valley to Qarshi. Which one to pick depends on the season, your time, and whether you want to see anything on the way.

The steppe road via Jam

Distance: about 150 km.
Time: 2–2.5 hours.

This is the main route between the cities, used by most cars and buses. From Samarkand the road heads south, crosses the low Jam pass, more hills than mountains, and drops into the Kashkadarya steppe.

Conditions and features:

• the surface is generally smooth and the road is open all year;
• there are no hairpins and the climbs are gentle;
• there are few settlements, with fuel and cafes mainly around Jam and closer to Qarshi;
• the open steppe is very hot in summer, and strong winds can blow in winter.

What to see: the scenery is modest, with hills, pastures and flocks of sheep, and poppies across the steppe in spring. The road's main advantages are speed and predictability.

The mountain road via Kitab

Distance: about 180–200 km.
Time: 3.5–4 hours without long stops.

This road is longer but far more beautiful. From Samarkand you climb the Takhtakaracha pass, around 1,700 m, with hairpins and views over the Zeravshan valley. Then you descend into Kitab district, Kitab and neighbouring Shahrisabz, and from there it is about 90 km along the Kashkadarya river valley to Qarshi.

Conditions and features:

• the hairpin road over the pass is narrow with sharp bends and needs care;
• in winter and early spring the pass may close because of snow and ice;
• after Shahrisabz the road crosses a populated plain and the surface is generally good;
• fruit, honey and kurt are sold on the pass, and there are places to stop.

What to see: the pass itself and, above all, Shahrisabz. The ruins of the Ak-Saray palace and the Dorut Tilovat and Dorus Saodat complexes are worth a stop of a couple of hours.

Comparison

Which to choose

• You are in a hurry. Via Jam.
• Winter or bad weather. Via Jam, since the pass may be closed.
• You want to see Shahrisabz. Over the pass and via Kitab, with a stop.
• You get carsick on hairpins. Via Jam.
• Travelling with children. Via Jam if the aim is simply to get there; over the pass if you are happy to make stops.

Transport

Train

Trains, including high-speed ones, run between Samarkand and Qarshi. If the timetable suits you, this is the most comfortable way: the journey takes about 1.5–2 hours. Check current services.

Minibuses and shared taxis

Minibuses and cars leave from the bus stations of both cities, and most of them go via Jam. They depart when full.

Shared rides

On Yo'ldosh drivers post trips with a departure time and price per seat, and drivers are verified. When booking you can ask which road the driver will take; if the route via Shahrisabz matters to you, discuss it in advance. Trips are on the Samarkand — Qarshi and Qarshi — Samarkand pages.

Cost

Prices for minibuses, car seats and taxis change, so think in proportions: a minibus is cheapest, a seat in a car costs several times more, and a whole taxi costs about the same as four seats. A shared ride is usually similar to a seat in a car. By taxi, the road over the pass costs more because of the distance.

Tips

1. Before crossing the pass in winter, check whether it is open; drivers usually know the situation.
2. On the steppe road in summer, bring water and leave in the morning.
3. There may be checkpoints entering Kashkadarya, so keep your passport with you.
4. If you go via Shahrisabz, allow at least an hour for a walk to Ak-Saray.

The way back from Qarshi

From Qarshi to Samarkand the logic is the same, with one nuance: if you leave after lunch, avoid the pass, as the descent to Samarkand would fall at dusk. In that case take the road via Jam. But if you leave in the morning and want to spend half a day in Shahrisabz, the mountain route is a great way to turn a transfer into a small journey.

The bottom line

Samarkand to Qarshi is a choice between the quick steppe road via Jam (2–2.5 hours) and the beautiful mountain road via Kitab and Shahrisabz (3.5–4 hours). Trips in both directions are on the Samarkand — Qarshi and Qarshi — Samarkand pages, and other destinations are in the routes section.

Cover photo: Stomac, CC BY-SA 2.0 fr, Wikimedia Commons.