A Southern Route: Qarshi, Guzar and Termez in 4 Days

The south of Uzbekistan stays in the shadow of Samarkand and Bukhara, though it holds ancient fortresses, Buddhist monuments, mountains and the hottest climate in the country. The journey from Tashkent to the Afghan border at Termez is over a thousand kilometres, so it is more comfortable to split it into four days. Below is a plan with realistic distances and tips.

The big picture

The route runs through Samarkand to Qarshi, then through Guzar to the Baysun mountains and on into the Surkhandarya region to Termez. The road is generally good, but in the south it is noticeably hotter and more desert-like. In July and August daytime temperatures exceed forty degrees, so the best time to go is April, May, September and October.

Day 1: Tashkent to Qarshi

From Tashkent to Qarshi is about 600 kilometres, usually 7 to 9 hours with stops. The road runs via Jizzakh and Samarkand, and it makes sense to stop for lunch in Samarkand. Route description: Tashkent — Qarshi. If you leave at dawn you will be in Qarshi by evening. The city has many parks, and its historic sights include the Abdullakhan caravanserai and mosques. An evening stroll and dinner make a decent substitute for a full tour.

There is also another option: overnight in Samarkand and shorten the first day. Then you reach Qarshi around lunchtime on day two.

Day 2: Qarshi, Guzar, the road south

From Qarshi towards Termez the road passes through Guzar and the Derbent gorge, known as the Iron Gates on the old route between Sogdiana and Bactria. The distance from Qarshi to Termez is roughly 330 to 350 kilometres, about five to six hours. Details: Qarshi — Termez. On the way you can stop in Guzar, a town with a bazaar and ancient history, and in the foothills of the Baysun mountains. If you want a walk, detour to Baysun, known for its mountain landscape and traditions.

Day 3: Termez

Termez, the southernmost city in the country, stands on the bank of the Amu Darya at the border. It was an important centre of Bactria and later of Buddhism. Here you should see the Buddhist monuments, the archaeological museum, the mausoleum of Hakim al-Termizi and the Sultan Saodat ensemble. The main part of the city is compact, and seeing the main sights takes a day. The heat is strong in summer, so start early and always wear a hat.

If you want nature, you can head for the mountains the next day. In Surkhandarya that means Tupalang, Sangardak and the Baysun area, reached by separate roads.

Day 4: return or mountains

You can get back to Tashkent in a day, but that is roughly 700 to 800 kilometres. It is better to break the return journey with an overnight stay in Shahrisabz or Samarkand. If you have time, spend the last day on Surkhandarya's mountain scenery and stretch the return to the capital over two days.

Summary table

These are approximate values and depend on stops, weather and road conditions.

Features of the south

• A special regime applies at the border with Afghanistan. Do not photograph border and military sites and keep your documents at hand.
• Heat: carry water, a hat and light clothing, and avoid midday exertion.
• Fuel stations are less frequent than in the north, so fill the tank.
• Roads carry a lot of lorries and machinery, so overtake carefully.
• In melon and watermelon season sweet fruit is sold along the roadside, and it is worth trying.

Transport without your own car

Part of the route can be done by train, but in the south the railway does not cover every direction. Buses and minibuses follow the main highways, but departure depends on how full they are. For long stretches such as Tashkent to Qarshi or Qarshi to Termez a shared ride is handy. On Yo'ldosh you can book a seat in advance with a driver covering that section and pay only for your seat. It is cheaper than a taxi and spares you waiting at the bus station.

What to bring

1. Passport and copies of documents: checks at posts are possible in the south.
2. Plenty of water: at least two litres per person for every few hours of the road.
3. Cash: ATMs are scarce in small towns.
4. Sun protection and light-coloured clothing.
5. A spare charger and an offline map.

Where to stay

Qarshi and Termez have enough hotels and guesthouses; Guzar and Baysun offer less choice, so book ahead. Prices for lodging, food and transport are approximate and worth checking before the trip.

You can pick convenient legs on the all routes page, and read how everything works for passengers in the for passengers section.

Cover photo: Keksov @ Mapillary.com, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.