Tupalang Reservoir: The Mountain Sea of Surkhandarya

The Tupalang reservoir lies in the mountains of the Surkhandarya region, in the Sariosiyo district, and is considered one of the most beautiful bodies of water in the south of the country. The colour of the water is striking: from soft light blue near the shore to deep turquoise in the middle. Gentle slopes of the Hissar range rise around it, and summers in the area are hot, so coolness by the water is doubly valued. Here is how to organise a trip.

Where it is

The reservoir was created by a dam on the Tupalang river, which rises in the Hissar mountains. It lies north of Denau, near Sariosiyo. Route description: Denau — Sariosiyo. From Termez it is roughly two to three hours, from Denau much less. The road to the reservoir passes through foothills where fields, orchards and small villages line the way. The final stretch is a mountain road, so drive carefully and in daylight.

What it looks like

The colour of the water depends on weather and light. In the morning it is soft blue, by day bright turquoise, and in overcast weather it turns grey-green. The shores are mostly stony, in places overgrown with shrubs and grass. The slopes around are green in spring and golden-yellow in summer and autumn. In calm weather the mountains reflect in the water, and photographs come out especially lovely. Sunsets here are warm and orange, and at night in a cloudless sky you can see many stars.

What to do

1. Walk the shore. Trails run along the water that you can follow without preparation. Choose morning or evening when it is cooler.
2. Take photographs. Mountains, water and sky give varied scenes.
3. Swim. The water is cool, but in summer it is pleasant to freshen up. Enter gradually, do not swim far and do not swim alone.
4. Fish. The reservoir holds fish, so you often meet anglers. If you plan to fish, ask local people about the rules.
5. Have a picnic. There are many spots in the shade of trees. Bring food, a grill and water, and carry your rubbish out.
6. Go boating. In season rental is sometimes offered, but conditions and prices should be confirmed on the spot.

Where to stay

Around the reservoir there are small guesthouses and holiday bases, but the choice is limited and places run out in season. There is more choice in Denau and Sariosiyo, from where you can come for a day. If you plan a night by the water, book lodging in advance and check whether the house has water and electricity. Sometimes it is simpler to stay in town and drive to the lake in the morning. For tent lovers, camping on the shore may be possible, but ask local people where it is permitted.

Seasons

• Spring (March to May). The best time: green slopes, blooming tulips and poppies, moderate heat. Plenty of water and beautiful shores.
• Summer (June to August). Hot, especially by day. Come in the early morning and evening and shelter in the shade at midday.
• Autumn (September to October). The heat subsides, the light is soft and the colours warm. One of the most pleasant times.
• Winter. Cold, with rain and fog possible, and roads may be slippery.

What to bring

• At least two to three litres of water per person: there are almost no sources on the shore.
• A hat, sunglasses and sunscreen.
• Light clothing for the day and a warm sweater for the evening.
• Swimwear and a towel.
• Closed shoes for the trail.
• Food if you plan a picnic.
• A rubbish bag.
• Cash: terminals almost never work.
• Mosquito and insect repellent.

Safety

Mountain water is cold, so cramps can appear unexpectedly. Do not swim far and do not dive from unknown places. Do not leave children unsupervised. Beware of snakes and scorpions and do not reach under stones. In the heat drink more water and avoid overheating. Drive carefully on the mountain road, especially after rain. Mobile coverage is unstable, so tell your family the route and return time.

What to see on the way

Denau is known for its bazaar and trading life, and the Sangardak waterfall is not far away. The Boysun mountains are famed for their scenery and traditions, and in Termez you can see Buddhist monuments and mausoleums. These places combine easily in a two-day trip: the first day Denau and the reservoir, the second the waterfall or Boysun.

Getting there without a car

Trains, buses and minibuses run to Denau and Sariosiyo. Beyond that, public transport to the reservoir is infrequent, so you have to arrange rides with drivers. A shared ride suits part of the way. On Yo'ldosh you can find a driver heading along the Denau and Sariosiyo route and book a seat. You pay only for your seat, so it is cheaper than hiring a car. For the last stretch, arrange in advance with a local driver, especially for the return.

Practical tips

Set off in the morning and leave a time reserve. Confirm the rules on the spot and do not leave rubbish. Prices for lodging, transport and services are approximate, depend on the season and may change, so it is worth checking them before the trip.

Find other directions on the all routes page, and read how to book rides in the for passengers section.

Cover photo: Artur Ustababaev, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.