The Bakhmal Mountains and Apple Orchards of Southern Jizzakh
Apples, mountain villages and cool air on the slopes of the Turkestan range: what to see in Bakhmal and how to get there from Jizzakh and Samarkand.
For many people Jizzakh means hot steppe and the highway between Tashkent and Samarkand. But turn south off the main road and within an hour the steppe gives way to foothills, and then to real mountains with orchards, springs and villages where people sleep under quilts even in summer. This is Bakhmal district, spread across the northern slopes of the Turkestan range. In Uzbekistan it is best known for its apples, sold at bazaars all over the country, but the mountains themselves are worth the trip.
Where Bakhmal is
Bakhmal district lies in the south of Jizzakh region, with the town of Usmat as its centre. From Jizzakh to the foothills it is about 60 km, roughly an hour to an hour and a half by road. To the east it borders Zaamin district, home to the well-known national park, so Bakhmal is often called Zaamin's quiet neighbour: similar nature, far fewer visitors.
Jizzakh is the base for the trip. From the capital, take the Tashkent — Jizzakh route; travellers already in Samarkand can use the Jizzakh — Samarkand route in the opposite direction. From Jizzakh, local cars run to Usmat and the mountain villages, or you can hire a taxi driver for the day.
Apple orchards
Orchards define the look of the district. They climb the slopes in terraces, stretch along the streams and surround every village.
- April to early May: blossom time. The slopes turn white, the air smells of honey and there is still snow on the peaks. This is the most photogenic period.
- June to July: lush green, cherries and apricots lower down, cool air higher up.
- August to October: the apple harvest. Crates of apples are sold along the roads and at house gates, and villagers dry fruit on their rooftops.
There are many varieties, from summer apples to late ones that keep until spring. Locals say the flavour comes from the altitude, cold nights and mountain water. Fruit bought straight from the orchards is usually cheaper than in the city, but prices depend on the harvest, so ask on the spot.
Mountain villages
Above Usmat lie small villages strung along the streams: houses of stone and mud brick, vegetable plots, walnut trees, donkeys on the paths and herds on the slopes. There is no tourist infrastructure in the usual sense; hotels and cafes are mostly in the district centre. Hospitality, however, is very much alive, and travellers are often invited in for tea with flatbread, honey and kaymak cream.
If you want to stay overnight, ask about guesthouses in advance or look for accommodation in Usmat or Jizzakh.
Nature and walks
The Turkestan range rises high here, and its lower slopes are covered with juniper, wild rose, hawthorn and wild herbs. What you can do in a day:
- Walk along a stream from a village up the valley to springs and small waterfalls, which are fullest in spring.
- Climb to the ridge above the orchards for views over the valley and the steppe below.
- Have a picnic under walnut trees by a stream, the favourite summer pastime of local families.
There are no waymarked trails, and mobile coverage drops out in the gorges. Walk with an offline map, tell someone your route and do not go high without experience and a guide.
When to go
| Season | What to expect |
|---|---|
| April to May | orchards in bloom, fresh air, possible rain |
| June to August | hot below, 25–30 °C by day in the mountains and cool nights |
| September to October | apple harvest, golden slopes, settled weather |
| November to March | cold, snow on the passes, roads can be difficult |
Autumn is probably the best compromise: dry roads, orchards full of fruit and no more heat.
What to bring
- a jacket or fleece even in summer, as evenings in the mountains get noticeably colder;
- comfortable shoes for dirt paths;
- cash, since villages have almost no ATMs or card terminals;
- a bag or box if you plan to take apples home; in season it is hard to resist.
Combining the trip
Bakhmal pairs well with Zaamin National Park: two days in the mountains, one in the orchards of Bakhmal and one in Zaamin's juniper forests. Another option is to visit Bakhmal on the way between Tashkent and Samarkand by making a detour south from Jizzakh. Then day one is the road and the orchards, and in the evening you can continue to Samarkand.
Getting there
The easiest way to reach Jizzakh is a shared ride: on Yo'ldosh drivers publish trips on the Tashkent — Jizzakh and Jizzakh — Samarkand routes. You book a seat in the app and choose a convenient departure time. It costs less than a taxi for the whole way, and in Jizzakh it is easy to switch to local transport for Bakhmal.
Cover photo: Sehrliolam, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.
