Samarkand Plov: How It Differs from the Tashkent Style
Layered serving, yellow carrots and rice that is never stirred: we break down how Samarkand plov is made and where and how to try it.
In Uzbekistan people say every region has its own plov, and that is no exaggeration. But compare the two best-known styles, Tashkent and Samarkand, and the difference is visible at first glance. Tashkent plov arrives mixed and golden, with kazy and quail eggs. Samarkand plov comes in layers: pale rice at the bottom, carrots above and pieces of meat on top. Here is where the difference comes from and how to eat Samarkand plov properly.
The key difference: layers
Samarkand plov is cooked so that the ingredients never mix, neither in the cauldron nor on the platter:
- The meat is seared in very hot oil, then onions are added.
- Carrots cut into thin strips are spread over the meat in a layer and not stirred.
- Water is added and the zirvak, the base of the plov, is left to simmer.
- Washed rice is spread on top in an even layer, again without stirring.
- The plov finishes cooking under a lid, and is served in layers: rice first, then carrots, and meat on the very top.
In Tashkent plov, by contrast, everything is mixed before serving so that every grain of rice soaks up the oil and meat juices.
Colour and flavour
Because of this technique, Samarkand plov looks paler than the Tashkent kind. The rice is almost white and loose-grained, and the flavours of the meat and carrots come through separately when you take all the layers in one spoonful. Many people find it "lighter", though it is still a filling dish.
Another difference is yellow carrots. Uzbekistan uses both red and yellow carrots, but Samarkand plov favours yellow ones: they are sweeter and do not dye the rice orange during the long simmer.
Meat and oil
- Meat: usually lamb or beef. It is cut into large pieces and sliced into portions on top of the rice when served.
- Oil: cottonseed oil or a blend, sometimes with a little sheep tail fat. Samarkand plov generally uses slightly less oil than the Tashkent style.
- Spices: cumin, sometimes barberries, and whole heads of garlic that steam inside the rice.
How to eat Samarkand plov
To taste it properly:
- Take a little rice, carrot and a piece of meat together, with a spoon or your hand.
- Do not stir the whole lagan; it is a shared table and everyone eats from their own side.
- Always order achchiq-chuchuk, the tomato and onion salad, and fresh flatbread.
- Drink green tea, which helps you digest the plov.
As in Tashkent, plov in Samarkand is eaten in the first half of the day. Many teahouses serve it at lunchtime, and the cauldrons are empty by evening.
Where to try it
In Samarkand plov is cooked in almost every teahouse, in big plov centres and at weddings. Tips for choosing a place:
- Look for places with cauldrons right on the street and plenty of locals at the tables.
- The areas around Siab Bazaar and the old town are full of small teahouses.
- Ask your driver or guesthouse host: people in Samarkand always have a favourite oshpaz.
- Come around midday, when the plov is fresh and hot.
A portion at an ordinary teahouse is fairly cheap; at tourist restaurants near the Registan it costs noticeably more. Prices change, so check the menu.
Table: Samarkand vs Tashkent plov
| Feature | Samarkand | Tashkent |
|---|---|---|
| Serving | In layers, unmixed | Mixed |
| Rice colour | Pale | Golden |
| Carrots | Mostly yellow | Yellow and red |
| Extras | Garlic, sometimes chickpeas | Kazy, quail eggs, chickpeas, raisins |
Plov on the road
If you are going to Samarkand especially for the food, it is easy to combine a culinary trip with travelling between cities. Tashkent to Samarkand is about 300 km, four to five hours by car. You can leave after a morning Tashkent plov and try the Samarkand version for lunch, the best way to compare.
Shared rides Tashkent to Samarkand are published on Yo'ldosh every day, and you book your seat in the app. If your journey continues to Bukhara, there is the Samarkand to Bukhara route, about 270 km and four hours, where yet another plov style, the Bukharan one, awaits. Drivers often know good roadside teahouses and can suggest where to stop.
Samarkand plov is a fine example of how the same dish can sound completely new. Try it at least once, then compare it with the Tashkent kind: in Uzbekistan people love arguing about which is better almost as much as they love eating it.
Cover photo: Ymblanter, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.
