Khorezm Cuisine: Shivit Oshi, Tukhum Barak and Gurja

Khorezm is an oasis on the lower Amu Darya, separated from the rest of Uzbekistan by hundreds of kilometres of the Kyzylkum desert. That isolation made its culture distinctive: its own dialect, its own dances, its own music, and its own food. Many Khorezm dishes simply cannot be found in Tashkent or Samarkand, or only in restaurants labelled "Khorezm cuisine". A trip to Khiva and Urgench is your best chance to try them.

Shivit oshi: green noodles with dill

This is Khorezm's best-known dish. "Shivit" is the Khorezm word for dill. A large amount of fresh, finely chopped dill goes into the noodle dough, so the noodles come out bright green and very fragrant.

How it is served:

• the noodles are boiled and placed on a plate;
• on top goes a stew of meat and vegetables: potatoes, carrots, peppers and tomatoes;
• beside it or on top, katyk or soured milk.

The combination of hot sauce, fresh herbs and cool soured milk makes the dish surprisingly light for how filling it is. Shivit oshi is a great lunch on a hot day when you do not feel like heavy plov.

Tukhum barak: dumplings filled with egg

The name means "egg dumplings". It is one of the most unusual dishes in Central Asia: the filling is not meat but beaten eggs, sometimes with milk.

How they are made:

1. Thin dough is rolled out and cut into squares or half-moons.
2. Little envelopes are shaped, leaving a small opening.
3. The liquid egg mixture is poured in through the opening, which is then carefully pinched shut.
4. The dumplings are boiled briefly, and the egg sets inside.

Tukhum barak is served hot with butter and katyk. The flavour is delicate, and making them is a real art: only an experienced cook can fill them with liquid without spilling a drop. If you see this dish on a menu, order it without hesitation.

Gurja: cracked wheat porridge

Gurja is one of Khorezm's old dishes. It is a thick porridge of cracked wheat simmered for a long time with meat until the grain breaks down. It is often served with katyk and butter.

Gurja is filling and warming, made for family celebrations and large gatherings. It turns up in restaurants less often than shivit oshi, so ask about it at your guesthouse or among local acquaintances.

What else to try in Khorezm

• Khorezm plov, a local version with its own way of cutting carrots and cooking. Here too every oshpaz has a secret.
• Samsa and tandoor flatbread: Khorezm bread is often stamped with patterns and sprinkled with sesame or nigella seeds.
• Fish: the Amu Darya and the oasis lakes supply fish that is fried or baked.
• Melons: Khorezm is famous for sweet melons, sold everywhere in late summer and autumn.
• Green tea, drunk with every meal here.

Where to eat in Khiva and Urgench

• Itchan Kala. Khiva's old town has many restaurants and teahouses, often in the courtyards of old houses and madrasas. Prices are higher here, but the atmosphere is worth it. Ask whether shivit oshi and tukhum barak are on today, as they are not made every day.
• Guesthouses. Many hosts cook Khorezm dishes for guests if you arrange it in advance. It is the best way to try home-made gurja.
• Urgench bazaar. Buy fresh bread, melons and dried fruit, and have lunch at a simple canteen.

Getting there

Khiva and Urgench are close together: about 30 to 35 km, a 40-minute drive. Urgench is the transport hub with an airport and railway station, so tourists often stay in Khiva and fly in and out via Urgench. Shared rides Urgench to Khiva are published regularly on Yo'ldosh, and you book your seat in the app.

If you are coming from Bukhara, the road across the Kyzylkum is about 450 km and six to seven hours. It is a long desert drive, so set off early with water and snacks. Yo'ldosh shared rides Bukhara to Khiva are convenient because the driver takes you straight to Khiva with no changes, and you can agree on rest stops in advance.

Tips for food lovers

• Try shivit oshi at lunchtime; by evening it may be gone.
• Do not shy away from katyk: in the heat it refreshes and aids digestion.
• If you want to learn to make tukhum barak, ask at your guesthouse; some hosts are happy to show you.
• Take home some dried melon, a popular souvenir from Khorezm.

Khorezm cuisine is one more reason to make the journey to this remote oasis. After a week of plov and kebabs, green dill noodles and delicate egg dumplings feel like a real discovery.

Cover photo: Toprak_Kala_(Khorezm,Ouzbékistan)(5609444698).jpg: dalbera from Paris, France derivative work: Jjtkk, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons.