Tashkent to Boysun: The Long Road to Teshik-Tash and Derbent
From the capital to Boysun is more than 600 km via Samarkand and the mountains. We compare train and car, explain how to break up the trip and what to see near the Iron Gates.
Boysun is a mountain town in the north of Surkhandarya, known for its ancient traditions, untouched gorges and archaeological sites. It is a long way from Tashkent, but the journey itself is a trip across half the country: the steppes of Jizzakh, Samarkand, the pass to Shahrisabz, the plains of Kashkadarya and the mountains of Boysun. Here is how to get there most comfortably and what not to miss at the end of the road.
How long it takes
By road it is about 600–650 km from Tashkent to Boysun. By car that is 9–11 hours of driving, not counting long stops. By train it takes about the same or longer, but you can travel overnight and sleep.
| Option | Time | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Train | roughly 10–14 hours | those who value comfort and travel overnight |
| Car or shared ride | 9–11 hours | those who want a flexible route and stops |
| Flight to Termez + car | depends on the flight | those short on time |
Option 1. The train
The railway linking Tashkent with Termez passes through Boysun. Trains run via Samarkand and Qarshi, then south through the mountains, and stop at Boysun station. Overnight trains are the most convenient: board in Tashkent in the evening and step off in the mountains in the morning.
Things to consider:
- there are few services, so buy tickets for popular dates early;
- make sure your train actually stops at Boysun;
- if there is no direct train on your date, take a fast train to Samarkand or Qarshi and continue by car;
- you will need local transport from the station to the centre of Boysun and to villages.
Check timetables and fares on the railway website or app.
Option 2. By car via Samarkand
The classic road route is Tashkent, Jizzakh, Samarkand, the Takhtakaracha Pass, Shahrisabz, Guzar, Derbent and Boysun. The stages:
- Tashkent to Samarkand (about 300 km): a wide highway with many cameras, and filling stations and cafes along the way.
- Samarkand to Shahrisabz over the Takhtakaracha Pass: hairpin bends and beautiful views. In winter the pass may be closed, forcing a much longer detour.
- Shahrisabz to Guzar: the Kashkadarya plain.
- Guzar to Derbent and Boysun: the climb into the mountains through narrow gorges and bends.
Tips for drivers:
- leave Tashkent before dawn so you cross the mountain sections in daylight;
- fill up in advance, as there are few filling stations in the mountains;
- keep your passport handy, as there are checkpoints on the road into Surkhandarya;
- do not plan to drive the whole way non-stop: take a break every two hours.
Option 3. A shared ride
People from Surkhandarya regularly drive to the capital and back. On Yo'ldosh you can find a trip from Tashkent to Boysun, or to Termez with a stop on the way, and book a seat in the app. Drivers are verified, the departure time and price are visible in advance, and a seat costs roughly several times less than a taxi over such a distance. An experienced driver knows the best places to stop for lunch and how to handle the mountain sections.
Breaking up the journey
Ten hours on the road in one go is exhausting. Good options:
- Overnight in Samarkand: day one is Tashkent to Samarkand, day two is the mountains and Boysun.
- Overnight in Shahrisabz: see the Ak-Saray palace and continue the next morning.
- Overnight train: the easiest way not to spend daylight hours travelling.
What to see at the end of the road
Derbent and the Iron Gates
Near the village of Derbent the road passes through a narrow gorge that in ancient times was called the Iron Gates. The caravan route between Samarkand and Bactria ran through here, and travellers of different eras mentioned this passage. The cliffs close in over the road to form a natural gateway. Stop only where it is safe to do so.
Teshik-Tash cave
In the Boysun mountains lies Teshik-Tash cave, where in the 1930s archaeologists found the remains of a Neanderthal child. It is one of the best-known Palaeolithic finds in Central Asia. The cave sits in a gorge, and the road there is mountainous and partly unpaved, so you need a local driver, a suitable vehicle and comfortable shoes for the climb.
Boysun
The town itself is a centre of a distinctive culture: embroidery, songs and rituals. In spring it hosts the Boysun Bahori folk festival. Even outside the festival it is worth walking around the market and trying the local dried fruit and nuts.
How many days to allow
A trip to Boysun from Tashkent is not a weekend outing but a proper short journey. The sensible minimum is four days: one day to get there, two days on the spot and one day to come back. If you also want to see Shahrisabz or linger in Samarkand, add another day or two. It works well to travel one way by train and the other by car: you see the mountain roads, but do not spend two full days behind the wheel.
When to go
- April to June is ideal: the passes are open and the mountains are in bloom.
- July to August: the plains are scorching and the mountains offer relief; travel at night or early in the morning.
- September to October: good weather and the harvest.
- Winter: the Takhtakaracha Pass may be closed and mountain roads icy, so the train is the better choice.
Practical tips
- Bring water, snacks and warm clothes, as the mountains are noticeably colder.
- Download offline maps, since coverage drops out in the gorges.
- Foreign visitors should carry their passport and registration documents.
- Cash is useful for markets and for paying local drivers.
You can find a ride from the capital on your date on the Tashkent to Boysun route page. All destinations in Surkhandarya and Kashkadarya are listed in the routes section, and if you are driving south yourself, take a look at the for drivers section.
Cover photo: Adam Harangozó, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.
