Grape Season in Uzbekistan: Varieties, Kishmish and Wine Tastings

Uzbekistan is one of the oldest grape-growing countries in Central Asia. Grapes have grown here for thousands of years, and in September and October the country smells of them: bazaars pile up bunches, raisins are dried, jam is boiled, juice is pressed and wine is made. For a traveller, the grape season is a delicious reason to come in autumn.

When grapes ripen

The season depends on region and variety.

• Early varieties. Ripen in July and August, especially in the southern regions.
• Mid-season varieties. The main harvest falls in late August and September.
• Late varieties. Picked in October, they keep longer and go into drying and wine.

For the best time to travel, aim for September and early October: by then bazaars have the widest choice and the weather is still comfortable.

Varieties worth trying

Uzbek grapes are split into table, raisin and wine types. Local names may differ, but you will certainly meet:

• Kishmish. Seedless grapes used for raisins. Fresh kishmish is small, sweet and tender.
• Husayni. A classic table variety with long berries, popular at every bazaar.
• Rizamat. Large berries, one of the best-known Uzbek varieties.
• Toyfi. A pinkish-white variety with crisp flesh.
• Dark-berried varieties. Used for juice and wine, found at bazaars in Samarkand, Bukhara and Kashkadarya.

Do not chase names. Ask the seller what is ripest now and ask to taste a berry: this is normal.

Where to taste and what to buy

Bazaars

The main place is the bazaar. In Samarkand it is Siab, in Tashkent Chorsu and others, and Bukhara and Fergana have their own markets. Buy fresh grapes, raisins (of different kinds), dried fruit, grape syrup (bekmes) and sweets made with grape juice. Raisins come green, golden and black; taste and choose to your liking.

Lunch in the shade of a vineyard

Many countryside teahouses and guesthouses are built under grape vines. Lunch in the shade of an arbour with bunches overhead is a pleasure of its own. Ask for fresh tea and fruit.

Wine and tastings

Winemaking in Uzbekistan is old, especially in Samarkand Region. Historically dessert and fortified wines were made here, and in recent years table wines have been developing. Some wineries host guests: they show cellars, hold tastings and talk about varieties. Opening hours, prices and tour rules change, so check the conditions in advance. Tastings are usually by prior booking.

If you plan tastings:

1. Check that the chosen winery is operating and receives tourists.
2. Find out the cost and contents of the tasting.
3. Do not drive after drinking: arrange a ride with a driver who does not drink.
4. Keep in mind that alcohol is not sold everywhere or to everyone in the country, with limits on time and place, for example.
5. Remember cultural norms: drinking alcohol is not customary in public places and in the regions.

You may not like wine, but wineries are worth a visit for the vineyards, cellars and conversations with winemakers.

Samarkand and around Tashkent

Samarkand. Grapes grow around the city, in the foothills and on slopes. The road from Samarkand to Tashkent takes about 3.5 to 4 hours, and in autumn it is easy to stop at roadside stalls with bunches and raisins. The Samarkand to Tashkent route is about 300 km.

Around Tashkent. Parkent, Bostanliq and Charvak are famous for orchards and vineyards on the slopes. A day trip from the capital into the foothills is easy. The Tashkent to Parkent route is about 40 to 45 km and 1 to 1.5 hours, a good option for a Sunday trip to a bazaar and a teahouse among vineyards.

Practical tips

• Wash the grapes. Whoever sells them, wash berries before eating.
• Bring a container. Fragile bunches need a box or plastic container for transport. Dry raisins are easier to carry.
• Check the raisins. Good raisins are soft, without mould or strong smell.
• Haggle politely. Prices depend on variety and season, so compare a few stalls.
• Watch for bees and wasps. In autumn they are active around fruit.
• Do not enter private vineyards without permission. Ask the owner or seller.

Getting there

In grape season it is convenient to travel by car: you stop where you like and can carry any amount of purchases. In the Yo'ldosh app you can find a shared ride on the Samarkand to Tashkent and Tashkent to Parkent routes: the driver publishes the trip in advance, you book a seat and see a verified profile. If you need a short stop at a stall or winery, agree on it with the driver beforehand.

Bottom line

Grape season is a tasty, beautiful and calm part of the Uzbek autumn. Try varieties at bazaars, lunch under the vines and, if you are curious, visit a winery. Choose your route on the pages for Samarkand to Tashkent and Tashkent to Parkent.

Cover photo: Shuhrataxmedov, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons.