Bukhara to Qarshi: 2.5 Hours Across the Steppe

Travellers often plan their Uzbekistan trip as spokes from Samarkand: out to Bukhara and back, down south and back. But there is a direct road across the steppe between Bukhara and Qarshi, about 160 km, which links the west and south of the country without hundreds of extra kilometres. For example: Samarkand, Bukhara, Qarshi, Shahrisabz and back to Samarkand as a loop. Here is how the trip works.

Distance and time

By road Bukhara to Qarshi is about 150–170 km, depending on where you start. By car that is 2–2.5 hours. The road leaves Bukhara to the south-east through the Kogon area and then runs across steppe and semi-desert to the Kashkadarya valley.

In the opposite direction, from Qarshi to Bukhara, the time is the same. In the evening traffic is heavier on the approach to Bukhara as cars return to the city.

What the road is like

It is a typical steppe highway of the south-west:

• flat terrain, long straight stretches and hardly any climbs;
• few settlements, with a landscape of wormwood steppe, camel thorn and scattered villages;
• in spring the steppe turns green and fills with poppies, while in summer it bleaches to yellow-grey;
• summer temperatures often exceed 40 °C, and in winter a strong cold wind can blow.

Many drivers speed up on the straights, but remember the speed limits and cameras: fines still apply.

Fuel and filling stations

In Uzbekistan many cars run on methane or propane, and that matters on this road:

• there are filling stations, but fewer than on the Tashkent to Samarkand highway; most are at the exit from Bukhara, around Kogon and closer to Qarshi;
• methane stations often have queues, especially in the morning and evening, which can add 20–40 minutes to the trip;
• if you are driving your own car, fill up completely before leaving and do not count on stretching the last of the tank to the next station.

If you are a passenger, just expect the driver to stop for fuel; that is normal.

Transport

Minibuses and buses

Intercity buses and minibuses run between Bukhara and Qarshi from the bus stations. They are cheap, but departure depends on filling up, and in summer the steppe can be very hard going without air conditioning.

Shared taxis

The traditional way: cars gather at the bus station and leave once they are full. Faster than a bus, but the wait is unpredictable.

Train

There is a railway between the cities, but direct passenger services are few and the timetable may not fit your plans. Check it in advance.

Shared rides

If you need to leave at a particular time, booking a seat with a driver heading your way is convenient. On Yo'ldosh you see the departure time, price per seat and driver profile, and drivers are verified. It is cheaper than a whole taxi and you do not have to wait at the station. Trips are on the Bukhara — Qarshi and Qarshi — Bukhara pages.

Short stops on the way

There are no major sights on this road, but there are a few sensible places for a break:

1. Kogon. Bukhara's satellite town with a railway station. Handy for buying water and snacks on the way out.
2. Roadside teahouses. Along the highway you will find chaikhanas where you can have tea, bread and shashlik and wait out the heat.
3. Filling stations. They often double as rest stops, with shade, water and toilets.

A longer stop is best made at the start or end of the trip, in Bukhara or Qarshi.

A route idea: a southern loop

If you are travelling around the country, the direct Bukhara to Qarshi road opens up a handy loop:

This way, in 4–5 days you can see Bukhara, Qarshi and Shahrisabz without driving the same road twice.

What to see in Qarshi

Qarshi is a quiet city with several 16th-century monuments: the Odina and Kok Gumbaz mosques, the Bekmir madrasa and the old brick bridge over the Kashkadarya. For travellers it is a good overnight stop before Shahrisabz.

Tips

• In summer leave early in the morning or towards evening.
• Carry at least 1.5 litres of water per person.
• There may be checkpoints entering Kashkadarya, so keep your passport with you, and foreigners should carry their registration.
• Mobile coverage on the steppe is generally fine, but there are gaps on some stretches.

The bottom line

Bukhara to Qarshi is 2–2.5 hours on a steppe highway that saves you a day of backtracking via Samarkand. The main things to plan for are fuel stops and heat. Trips in both directions are on the Bukhara — Qarshi and Qarshi — Bukhara pages, and all destinations are in the routes section.

Cover photo: Petar Milošević, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.