Bulungur: orchards and villages north of Samarkand

If you drive from Samarkand towards Jizzakh and Tashkent, half an hour after leaving the city you reach Bulungur. Many people pass through without stopping, seeing only roadside cafes and fruit stalls. That is a pity, because it is a good example of the orchard country of the Zarafshan valley that feeds Samarkand. It has a big bazaar, shady streets, village neighbourhoods and surroundings where apricot trees and vines sag under their harvest in summer.

Where Bulungur is

Bulungur is a district town in the Samarkand region, about 30–35 km north-east of Samarkand on the highway towards Jizzakh. The drive takes 30–40 minutes. The town lies in the fertile part of the Zarafshan valley, surrounded by canals, fields, orchards and vineyards, while to the north low mountains separate the valley from the steppe.

One of the country's main highways, Samarkand – Jizzakh – Tashkent, runs through the district, so Bulungur lives to the rhythm of the road, with plenty of petrol stations, teahouses and roadside markets.

What to see in Bulungur

The bazaar

The town's main attraction is the bazaar. Villagers from the surrounding area trade here, and what you find depends on the season:

• Spring: herbs, radishes, the first cucumbers and last year's dried apricots.
• Summer: cherries, apricots, peaches, early grapes and melons.
• Autumn: late grapes, pomegranates, quinces, apples and walnuts.
• All year: tandoor bread, dairy products, dried fruit, spices and rice.

Trading is liveliest in the morning, and the rows empty out by lunchtime. Prices are usually lower than in Samarkand's markets, so many Samarkand families come here to buy fruit in bulk for preserving or for a family celebration.

Orchards and village neighbourhoods

Walk the streets beyond the centre: houses with vines over their courtyards, irrigation channels along the lanes, mulberry trees and children on bicycles. In season, families dry apricots on their roofs, and the orange squares are visible from afar. If you are polite, you may well be invited in for tea.

Roadside stalls

In summer, stalls with fruit and melons line the highway, a handy way to buy a melon or a bucket of apricots for the road. Choose stalls where you can pull over safely and never stop on dangerous stretches of the highway.

How to choose a melon: a ripe one smells sweet right at the stall, and the skin near the stem gives slightly under your finger. Sellers are almost always happy to cut one open for you to taste, so do not hesitate to ask. If you are taking fruit back to Samarkand or further, ask for a cardboard box so nothing gets bruised on the way.

What to eat

Bulungur has several popular teahouses on the highway and in the centre. Try:

1. Samarkand plov: cooked in layers without stirring, with yellow carrots and lamb.
2. Shashlik: the main dish of roadside cafes on the highway.
3. Samsa: hot from the tandoor, a great snack for the road.
4. Fresh fruit from the bazaar: the best dessert in summer.

How to combine it with Jizzakh

Bulungur makes a good first stop on the way to Jizzakh. A plan for the day:

• Morning. Leave Samarkand, visit the Bulungur bazaar and walk among the orchards.
• Midday. Continue north-east. Before Jizzakh the highway passes through a gorge known as Tamerlane's Gate, a narrow passage between cliffs through which, according to legend, Timur's armies marched. Old inscriptions survive on the rocks. Stop only in permitted places, as the road is busy.
• Afternoon. Jizzakh, a town with a bazaar and parks; if you have another day, this is also where the road to the Zaamin mountains begins.

The whole Samarkand–Jizzakh trip is about 100 km and takes 1.5–2 hours without stops in normal traffic.

When to go

• April to May: orchards in blossom and green slopes on the mountains to the north.
• June to July: peak fruit season, with cherries and apricots. Afternoons are hot, so go in the morning.
• August to October: grapes, melons and pomegranates, with the bazaar at its busiest.
• Winter: quiet; the bazaar is open, but there are no orchards in bloom.

How to get there

Minibuses and taxis run from Samarkand to Bulungur. A convenient option is a shared ride: on the Bulungur – Samarkand route drivers post trips on Yo'ldosh. You choose a time, book a seat in the app and pay only for yourself. This is especially handy if you are coming back from the bazaar with bags of fruit, since you do not have to flag down a car on the highway.

Practical tips

• Pay with cash at the bazaar and break large notes in advance.
• Bargain politely; if you buy a lot, sellers will usually offer a discount themselves.
• Photograph people and courtyards only with permission.
• Be careful crossing the highway, as traffic moves fast.
• In summer bring water and a hat.

Bulungur is Samarkand without the mausoleums but with orchards, a bazaar and the warmth of village life. If you want to stop by, check rides on the Bulungur – Samarkand route, and find other connections in the region under all routes.

Cover photo: Humoyun Qodirov, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.