Uzbekistan in Winter: What to See and How to Dress

Winter in Uzbekistan is a season valued by those who love quiet and low prices. Domes under snow, smoke from teahouses and almost empty squares give a completely different picture of the country. But there are downsides too: cold, short days and limits in some places. Here is how to prepare and what to do in winter.

What the weather is like

• December. Around 0 to +8 C by day, down to -5 C at night. Damp, many overcast days, and the first snow is possible in Tashkent.
• January. The coldest month. Around zero by day, -5 to -10 C at night, with harder frosts in Khiva and the north. Snow falls in Tashkent and Samarkand, less often in Bukhara.
• February. The cold lingers, but it warms toward the end of the month and thaws begin.

Figures are approximate and vary from year to year. The main feature is damp cold: it feels stronger than the thermometer shows.

Pros of a winter trip

1. Few tourists. The Registan, Shah-i-Zinda and Itchan Kala are almost empty, and you are alone with the monuments.
2. Low prices. Hotels and guesthouses are cheaper than in spring and autumn, and you can negotiate.
3. Beautiful shots. Turquoise domes against a grey or snowy sky look more dramatic than under a summer sky.
4. Warming food. Shurpa, mastava, plov, lagman and hot flatbread: all especially good in winter.
5. Holidays. New Year fairs and fir trees in Tashkent and Samarkand, illuminated squares.
6. Mountain sports. Chimgan and Beldersay welcome skiers and snowboarders.

Cons

• Cold and damp. Many rooms are poorly heated, and some museums and mosques are chilly.
• Short days. It gets dark around five, leaving less time for sightseeing.
• Mud and puddles. After rain and snow streets are slushy, so you need waterproof shoes.
• Limitations. Some guesthouses, yurt camps and small cafes are closed or run reduced hours, and yurts in the desert are cold at night.
• Roads. Snow and ice are possible in the mountains and on passes, and roads are sometimes closed.

What to see

Samarkand

Snow on blue domes is one of the most memorable sights. The Registan, Shah-i-Zinda and Gur-Emir look stern and solemn in winter. Warm teahouses near the Siab bazaar are a good place to thaw out.

Bukhara and Khiva

Empty streets, smoke over rooftops, closed courtyards. Museums work, but they are cold, so dress warmly. Itchan Kala is atmospheric in winter, especially in the morning.

Tashkent

In winter the capital's theatres, museums, malls and bazaars are open. The metro is one of the best in the region, and the stations are worth seeing even in cold weather. Warm restaurants and cafes save you from the damp.

Mountains

Chimgan, Beldersay and Amirsoy are ski resorts one to two hours from Tashkent. Slopes and lifts work when there is enough snow, usually from January to February. Check current snow cover and lift operation before you go.

How to dress

1. Outerwear. A down jacket or knee-length warm coat, a dry hat, scarf and gloves.
2. Layers. Thermal underwear, a sweater or fleece, and a windproof jacket.
3. Footwear. Waterproof with tread, with warm insoles and warm socks.
4. Accessories. Hand warmers and sunglasses: snow reflects light.
5. For mosques and museums. Light spare shoes or warm socks: sometimes you must take shoes off and floors are cold.
6. Umbrella. Moisture often falls as wet snow.

Getting around

In cold weather the high-speed train and cars run as usual, but delays are possible on mountain roads and passes. If you need Samarkand, the Tashkent to Samarkand route is about 300 km and usually takes 3.5 to 4 hours on the lowland highway; in snow and ice it can take longer. To continue, the Samarkand to Bukhara route is about 270 km and 3 to 3.5 hours across the desert stretch.

Before setting out check the forecast and road conditions, leave in the morning and avoid travelling at night or in heavy snow. In the Yo'ldosh app you can choose the departure time, book a seat in advance and view the driver's profile. If the weather changes your plans, arrange a reschedule with the driver ahead of time.

Winter holidays

New Year is widely celebrated: fir trees, fairs, fireworks, restaurant dinners. Book a table and lodging in advance. Old New Year (the night into 14 January) is not celebrated everywhere. Holiday days often come with higher demand for transport.

Practical tips

• Book lodging with reliable heating and ask about it in advance.
• Bring a thermos with hot tea, as teahouses are not everywhere.
• Shift your schedule: start sightseeing at 9 or 10 and finish before dusk.
• Carry cash: in cold weather ATM and terminal electronics are sometimes temperamental.
• Protect your phone from the cold and carry a power bank.

Bottom line

Winter in Uzbekistan suits those who want to see the country without crowds and at reduced prices. Dress warmly, plan travel for daylight and bring a reserve of patience. For more on routes see the pages for Tashkent to Samarkand and Samarkand to Bukhara.

Cover photo: Radomianin, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.