Chinaz: a town on the banks of the Syr Darya

Many people in Tashkent associate Chinaz with one thing: fish. Fried fish by the bridge over the Syr Darya has been eaten here for generations, and people happily drive an hour from the capital for it. But this town on the banks of Central Asia's longest river offers more: wide water, sunsets over the floodplain, fishing, a bazaar and the story of a crossing that caravans and travellers used for centuries. Here is how to spend a day off in Chinaz.

Where Chinaz is

Chinaz is a district town in the Tashkent region, about 60–70 km south-west of Tashkent. The drive takes around an hour depending on traffic leaving the capital. The town stands on the right bank of the Syr Darya, close to where the Chirchik river flows into it. Across the river begins the Syrdarya region with its capital Gulistan.

The land around is flat: fields, orchards and canals, and closer to the river floodplain thickets, tugai woodland, sandbanks and islands.

A little history: the crossing

There has been a crossing over the Syr Darya near Chinaz since ancient times. Routes from the Tashkent oasis to the south-west, towards the Hungry Steppe, Samarkand and Bukhara, met here. The river is wide with a strong current, so crossing it was never easy and the site was valued. Later bridges were built, and Chinaz became an important point on the roads south from the capital.

Today the old crossing survives mostly in memory and place names, but the sight of the wide river helps you understand why this frontier mattered so much.

Things to do in Chinaz

A riverside walk

The main thing in Chinaz is the Syr Darya. The bank is pleasant for a walk in the morning or towards sunset when the heat eases. The water is murky and sandy-coloured, and the current is fast. At sunset the floodplain turns gold and pink, a good time for photos.

Swimming in the Syr Darya is not recommended: the current is strong, the bottom uneven, and there are holes and whirlpools. Even experienced swimmers are at risk here.

Fishing

The Syr Darya and its side channels are popular with anglers, who catch carp, catfish, zander, asp and other river fish. If you want to fish:

• check the current rules and closed seasons locally;
• choose safe spots on the bank and do not wade in deep;
• bring a canopy or umbrella in the heat, as there is little shade by the water;
• ask locals for a good spot; they know the channels better than any map.

Fried fish

This is why many people come to Chinaz. Along the road and by the river there are cafes and stands where fish is fried in plenty of oil until crisp and served with flatbread, onions and herbs. Fish is usually chosen by weight, and you should check the price in advance; it depends on the type of fish and the season.

Tips:

1. Come for lunch, when the fish is fresh and the choice is wider.
2. Ask which fish came from the river today and which from fish farms.
3. Bring napkins and wet wipes, as eating fish with your hands is normal here.

The bazaar

The Chinaz bazaar sells fruit, vegetables, rice and dairy products, as well as fresh and smoked fish. It is a good place to buy food for a picnic on the riverbank.

A plan for the day

• 9:00: leave Tashkent.
• 10:00–11:30: the bazaar and a walk around town.
• 12:00–13:30: lunch of fried fish by the river.
• 14:00–17:00: fishing or relaxing in the shade on the bank.
• 17:30–18:30: sunset over the Syr Darya.
• 19:00: head back to Tashkent.

When to go

• April to May: fresh greenery, comfortable weather and good fishing.
• June to August: hot, above 35°C in the afternoon; come in the morning or evening.
• September to October: mild weather, beautiful sunsets, and the fishing season continues.
• Winter: cool and windy by the river, but fish is fried all year round.

How to get there

Minibuses and taxis run from Tashkent to Chinaz. A convenient alternative is a shared ride: on the Chinaz – Tashkent route drivers post trips on Yo'ldosh. You book a seat at the time you need and pay only for yourself rather than for the whole car. It is also handy for coming back in the evening, when there are fewer minibuses.

Practical tips

• Do not swim in the Syr Darya; the current is dangerous.
• Bring mosquito repellent, as there are plenty by the river, especially in the evening.
• Cash is useful at the riverside cafes and the bazaar.
• Do not leave rubbish on the bank; the floodplain suffers from plastic.
• If you are with children, never let them go near the water unsupervised.

Chinaz is a simple, pleasant escape from Tashkent: river, fish and sunset. To get there and back easily, check rides on the Chinaz – Tashkent route, and find tips for travellers on the for passengers page.

Cover photo: Kun, Aleksandr L., 1840-1888, Public domain, Wikimedia Commons.