Where to stay in Samarkand: old city, centre or outskirts

Samarkand seems compact until you start walking around it in July heat. That is when you realise how much depends on where you stay: how much you spend on taxis, whether you can retreat to your room in the middle of the day and whether it will be quiet at night. Let us look at the three main options — the old city by the Registan, the European quarter and the tourist complex on the edge of town — and who each one suits.

The old city by the Registan

East and north of the Registan stretch the mahallas, where family guesthouses and small courtyard hotels hide behind solid gates.

Pros:

• the Registan, Bibi-Khanym and Siab Bazaar are all within walking distance;
• atmosphere: vines in the courtyard, morning tea with your hosts, a home-made breakfast;
• easy to retreat to your room in the hottest hours and head out again in the evening;
• a wide price range, from simple rooms to boutique guesthouses.

Cons:

• narrow lanes: not every driver can reach the door, and sometimes you have to wheel your suitcase a couple of hundred metres;
• noise near the main pedestrian streets and the square in the evenings, especially at weekends and on holidays;
• rooms in old houses can be small, with thin walls.

Tip: when booking, ask whether a car can reach the entrance and request an exact map pin for the driver.

The European quarter

The western side of the centre — boulevards, wide streets, buildings from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, parks and cafes.

Pros:

• 15–25 minutes' walk or a couple of minutes by taxi to the Registan and Gur-e-Amir;
• quieter than around the main ensembles, especially in the side streets;
• more conventional mid-range hotels, shops and restaurants;
• cars can pull up at the door without trouble.

Cons:

• less of the traditional atmosphere;
• the walk to the ensembles is tiring in the heat.

Best for: people arriving by car, families with children, and anyone who wants familiar city comforts.

By the Eternal City

A few kilometres from the historic centre, a large tourist complex has been built with hotels, a congress centre, a rowing canal and the Eternal City — a stylised quarter with craft workshops, cafes and spaces for evening strolls.

Pros:

• modern upscale hotels;
• everything on one site: restaurants, promenades and evening events;
• easy parking and access.

Cons:

• you will need a taxi to the Registan and the bazaar every day;
• prices are noticeably higher than in the centre;
• it feels like a separate resort — you will not get a sense of the real Samarkand here.

Best for: conference delegates, travellers who value high service standards, and short breaks without much walking.

Comparison

Prices are approximate and depend heavily on the season: in spring and autumn, and especially on holidays, everything costs more and books up fast.

What about the outskirts?

Accommodation in Samarkand's residential districts is usually cheaper, but for a tourist it rarely pays off: the savings go on taxis, and in the evening you will not want a long trip back. The exception is if you are travelling by car on a long trip and parking and quiet matter most.

Distances worth knowing

• The railway station is in the north-west of the city, a few kilometres from the Registan — 15–20 minutes by taxi from the old city.
• The airport is north of the centre, about 15–20 minutes away.
• The road to Tashkent leaves to the north-east; it is about the same distance from the European quarter and the old city.

If you are coming from Tashkent

Tashkent to Samarkand is about 300 km: 2–2.5 hours on the high-speed train, 4–4.5 hours by car. If the train times do not suit you, you can book a seat on a Tashkent — Samarkand shared ride on Yo'ldosh. A handy detail: agree on the drop-off point with the driver in the chat — many will take you to a landmark near your accommodation, such as the Registan or Gur-e-Amir, a couple of minutes from your guesthouse.

Booking tips

• For a guesthouse in a mahalla, read reviews about noise, showers and air conditioning.
• Air conditioning is a must in summer; in winter ask about heating — old houses cool down quickly.
• Check that the property registers foreign guests.
• If you want to catch sunrise at the Registan, stay in the old city: the square is almost empty in the early morning.

The bottom line

For a first visit and atmosphere, choose the old city by the Registan; for travelling by car or with children, the European quarter; for comfort and conferences, the hotels by the Eternal City. A Tashkent — Samarkand ride will get you there from the capital, and other destinations are on the routes page.

Cover photo: Шухрат Саъдиев, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.