The Gulkam canyon: a narrow gorge below Chimgan

Gulkam is a narrow gorge that a stream has carved into the slopes between Chimgan and Charvak. In places the walls close in so tightly that you see only a strip of sky overhead, and the path runs straight down the stream bed between boulders and small waterfalls. The route is short in distance but packed: in one day you cross more kinds of terrain than on many longer trails. That is exactly why the canyon is both popular and treacherous.

How the route works

The classic option is a through-hike from top to bottom:

1. Start on the plateau above the canyon. Drive towards Chimgan, then walk across open slopes to the head of the gorge.
2. Descend into the canyon. The trail drops down into the stream bed.
3. The canyon itself. Several kilometres along the floor and sides of the gorge: boulders, waterfalls, tight squeezes and ledges above the water.
4. Exit towards Charvak. The gorge opens into a valley from which you can walk out to the road along the reservoir.

The full traverse usually takes 6 to 9 hours depending on pace, weather and group size. The height loss is considerable and you walk downhill almost the whole way, which is hard on the knees.

There is also an easy option: walk up from the canyon exit to the first waterfalls and return the same way. It suits anyone who wants to see Gulkam without the difficult descents.

The hard sections

The canyon does not require climbing gear, but several spots challenge even experienced hikers.

• Down-climbs on rock steps beside waterfalls. The rock is wet and smooth. Ropes or chains are sometimes fixed here, but relying on someone else's anchors is risky.
• Narrow ledges above the water. You have to edge along sideways, holding on to the rock.
• Stream crossings. In several places there is no way round, and you have to wade.
• Boulder chokes. Spring floods change the terrain, and the usual line may be blocked.

If you are unsure of a section, stop, take a look and wait for a more experienced member of the group to go first.

When to go

The season for the full traverse runs roughly from late June to October.

• Spring and early summer — the stream is in spate, the current is strong and many sections become impassable. Better not to go at this time.
• July to August — the water drops and the gorge is cool, but the approach over open slopes is very hot. Start early.
• September to October — the best time: settled weather, low water and bright colours.
• After rain — the canyon is dangerous in any season: rocks are slippery and the water rises fast.

Safety essentials

Accidents happen in Gulkam every year, so take a few rules seriously.

• Do not go alone. At least 3–4 people, ideally with a guide or someone who has done the canyon before.
• Check the weather. If rain is forecast in the mountains, postpone.
• Start early. It gets dark in the canyon sooner than on the open slopes, and scrambling over boulders by head torch is very dangerous.
• Do not jump into the water from rocks. You cannot see how deep the pools are, and there may be rocks on the bottom.
• Tell someone your route and when you expect to be out.
• Do not take risks for photos on ledge edges or wet rocks.

What to bring

• Hiking shoes with grippy soles that you do not mind getting wet. Trainers with smooth soles are dangerous here.
• 2–3 litres of water per person and food for the whole day.
• A light jacket and dry socks in a sealed bag.
• Gloves, which help when holding rock and ropes.
• A first-aid kit with a bandage and blister plasters.
• A head torch in case you are delayed.
• A charged phone: there is no signal in the canyon, but there is usually coverage on the plateau and at Charvak.

Getting there

First get to Chirchik, about 35 km from Tashkent. A convenient option is a seat in a shared car on Tashkent — Chirchik. From Chirchik the road heads towards Chimgan and Charvak, and you reach the trailhead by taxi or with a local driver. Be sure to arrange in advance who will pick you up at the canyon exit: the start and finish are in different places, and you will not have the energy to walk back to the car.

Many organised groups from Tashkent hike Gulkam at weekends, which is a good option for a first visit.

After the canyon

If you still have energy when you come out at Charvak, you can swim in the reservoir at one of the beaches or have dinner at a roadside teahouse. On weekend evenings the road back to Tashkent gets busy, so plan your return in advance: you can find a shared ride back on the same Tashkent — Chirchik route in Yo'ldosh, and other mountain destinations under all routes.

Cover photo: German Stimban, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.