Kasansay: a reservoir and mountain getaways near Namangan

When the thermometer in Namangan climbs past 35°C, many families pack a cauldron, carpets and watermelons and head north to Kasansay. It is less than an hour away, yet the difference is enormous: mountain air, cold river water, shade from walnut trees and evenings when you actually need a sweater. Here is how to spend a weekend there and what to know before you go.

Where Kasansay is

Kasansay is a district town in the north of the Namangan region, about 25–30 km from Namangan. The drive takes 35–45 minutes. The town stands where the Kasansay river, flowing down from the Chatkal range, leaves the mountains. To the north the foothills begin, and beyond them lies the border with Kyrgyzstan.

The place has a long history. In the early Middle Ages there was a city called Kasan here, which Arab geographers listed among the major cities of Fergana. Mounds of ancient ruins remain on the edge of town, while modern Kasansay is a calm green town with a bazaar, parks and low-rise houses.

Kasansay reservoir

The main attraction for holidaymakers is the Kasansay reservoir upstream of the town. It was built for irrigation, but the water surrounded by hills has long since become a popular weekend spot.

What people do here:

• Picnics on the shore. People arrive in the morning, claim a spot by the water, cook plov or shashlik and stay until evening.
• Fishing. Anglers fish from the bank; check the rules and any permits on site.
• Sunset photos. The hills around the reservoir glow beautifully in the evening light.

Keep in mind that this is a working reservoir and there may be no proper beaches or lifeguards. Swim carefully, do not go far out and keep an eye on children. The water level changes over the season, and the banks can be steep.

Gorges and cottages

Higher in the mountains, recreation areas line the river: private cottages, summer camps and tapchan platforms over the water. Many local families rent out houses for the weekend, usually arranged through acquaintances or on the spot, so it is best to arrive with time to spare.

A typical day in the gorge looks like this:

1. In the morning, a drive along the river with a stop at a spring or a viewpoint.
2. During the day, tea on a tapchan over cold water, plov from the cauldron and melon for dessert.
3. In the afternoon, a walk along a path into the orchards or up the nearest slopes.
4. In the evening, shashlik, conversation and a starry sky you never see in the city.

Do not go far into the mountains without a guide, as some areas adjoin the border zone. Never light fires on dry grass; in summer the slopes catch fire easily.

What to eat

Namangan cooking is known for its variety, and you feel it in Kasansay:

• Plov: teahouses serve the Namangan version with yellow carrots, and at weekends it is cooked at the picnic spots too.
• Lamb shashlik: the main dish of an evening by the water.
• Samsa and tandoor bread: buy them at the bazaar in the morning while they are hot.
• Shurpa: welcome after a walk on a cool day.
• Fruit: cherries, apricots and melons in summer; grapes and walnuts from the mountain orchards in autumn.

Travelling with children

Kasansay is good for a family break, but it needs some care. Choose a cottage with a fenced yard and a gentle approach to the river: mountain water is cold and the current is strong even in shallow spots. Bring a first-aid kit, mosquito repellent and spare clothes, because the children will almost certainly get wet. For small kids, short walks through the orchards work better than long climbs up the slopes.

When to go

• May to June: green slopes, blossom, the water still cool but the weather warm.
• July to August: peak season. Weekends are crowded; weekdays are quieter.
• September to October: golden autumn, harvest time and few people, excellent for walks.
• Winter: it is cold in the mountains and the roads up the gorge can be slippery.

How to get there

Minibuses and taxis run from Namangan to Kasansay, but if you are going for the weekend with luggage and food, a shared ride is more convenient. On the Namangan – Kasansay and Kasansay – Namangan routes drivers post trips on Yo'ldosh, so you can book a seat for Friday morning and Sunday evening without depending on minibus timetables. To get further into the gorges people usually take a local taxi or arrange a transfer with their cottage hosts.

Practical tips

• Bring a warm layer even in July; nights in the gorge are cool.
• Mobile signal does not work everywhere by the river and in the mountains, so agree on meeting times in advance.
• Cash is essential: cottages and village shops rarely accept cards.
• Take your rubbish with you; the picnic areas rely on visitors being considerate.
• Do not drink river water without boiling it.

Kasansay shows how, an hour from a big city, you can find mountains, water and quiet. If you are planning a weekend, look for trips on Namangan – Kasansay for Friday and Kasansay – Namangan for Sunday, and find useful travel tips on the for passengers page.

Cover photo: Jamshid Nurkulov, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.