Kashkadarya in 2 Days: Shahrisabz, Kitab and Qarshi
An unhurried route through Timur's homeland: the ruins of Ak-Saray, the mountains and latitude station of Kitab, and old Qarshi with its brick bridge and domes.
Most visitors see Kashkadarya only in passing: they come to Shahrisabz for half a day from Samarkand and head straight back. The region deserves more. Amir Timur was born here, the Hissar mountains begin here, and Qarshi, the second-largest city in the south, has monuments few people know about. In two days you can cross the region from north to south and leave by train from Qarshi.
The route in brief
- Day 1: Samarkand to Shahrisabz over the pass, evening and night in Shahrisabz.
- Day 2: morning in Kitab, on to Qarshi, evening train.
Day 1: over the Takhtakaracha Pass to Shahrisabz
The road from Samarkand to Shahrisabz is about 90 km over the Takhtakaracha Pass, at roughly 1,700 m. By car it takes 1.5–2 hours, and you will want to stop more than once: there are viewpoints at the top and roadside stalls selling dried fruit and tea. In winter the pass is sometimes closed by snow, and traffic takes the lower road via Kitab, which adds time.
The historic centre of Shahrisabz is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. What to see:
- Ak-Saray, the remains of Timur's summer palace. Only parts of its colossal portal survive, but they are enough to show the ambition behind it: it was one of the largest buildings of its age. A statue of Timur stands nearby.
- Dorus-Saodat, the complex Timur built as a family burial ground. The mausoleum of Jahangir, Timur's eldest son, survives, along with an underground crypt intended for Timur himself, although he was eventually buried in Samarkand.
- Dorut-Tilovat, with the Kok Gumbaz mosque built by Ulugbek and the Gumbazi Sayidon mausoleum.
- Chorsu, an old covered trading dome at a crossroads.
The city centre has been reconstructed as a large park, which makes it easy to explore on foot. In the evening visit the bazaar and try the local bread. Shahrisabz is also known for embroidery, so look out for suzani and skullcaps.
Day 2: Kitab and the mountains
In the morning drive to Kitab, only 10–15 minutes away: the road from Shahrisabz to Kitab is about 12 km. Kitab is a small town at the foot of the Zarafshan range. Since 1930 it has been home to the International Latitude Station, one of a handful in the world where astronomers tracked the wobble of the Earth's axis. Above the town rise the mountains of the Kitab Geological Reserve, with fossils from an ancient seabed. Visiting the reserve requires a permit and an escort, so check the conditions in advance; otherwise you can simply drive up into the foothills, where poppies bloom in spring and summers are noticeably cooler.
If you love nature, Kitab is a good base for half a day in the mountains: locals head to the rivers for tea and shashlik, and in the villages higher up the valleys you can see how mountain communities live.
Day 2, afternoon: Qarshi
After lunch take the road from Shahrisabz to Qarshi, about 110–120 km across the plain, an hour and a half to two hours. Qarshi is ancient Nasaf, a trading town on the road from Samarkand to Bukhara and Balkh.
What to see:
- The 16th-century brick bridge over the Kashkadarya, one of the few medieval bridges surviving in the country.
- The Kok Gumbaz mosque with its turquoise dome, said to have been built in Ulugbek's time.
- The Odina mosque, a small old building that now houses a museum.
- The old madrasas in the centre, some of them now occupied by craftsmen and museums.
- The Erkurgan ancient site a few kilometres away, the ruins of a walled city (ideally with a guide).
Trains run from Qarshi to Tashkent and Samarkand, including high-speed services, so heading back in the evening is easy. Check the timetable beforehand.
A rough timetable for day two
Day two is packed, so it helps to keep some markers in mind:
| Time | Plan |
|---|---|
| 8:00 | leave Shahrisabz for Kitab |
| 8:30–12:00 | Kitab, the latitude station, the foothills |
| 12:00–13:00 | lunch in Shahrisabz or Kitab |
| 13:00–15:00 | drive to Qarshi |
| 15:00–18:30 | the bridge, mosques and madrasas of Qarshi |
| evening | train to Samarkand or Tashkent |
If your train leaves early, cut the mountain part short: Qarshi at a relaxed pace is better than a dash past the monuments.
When to go
Spring, from March to May, is the best time: the mountains are green, the pass is open and the weather is mild. Autumn is good too. Summer in Qarshi is hot, up to 40°C, while Shahrisabz and Kitab are a little cooler thanks to the mountains. Snow is possible on the pass in winter.
Tips
- Cross the pass in daylight: the switchbacks are narrow and the views are worth seeing.
- In Shahrisabz you can stay in a guesthouse, cheaper and friendlier than a hotel.
- Carry cash: cards are not accepted everywhere in small towns.
- Friday midday is prayer time, so avoid visiting mosques then.
Getting around
Minibuses and taxis link Samarkand, Shahrisabz and Qarshi, and a shared ride on Yo'ldosh lets you pick a driver with the departure time you need and book your seat in advance. It is usually cheaper than a taxi and more flexible than a bus. Find rides on Samarkand to Shahrisabz, Shahrisabz to Kitab and Shahrisabz to Qarshi, or open all routes.
Cover photo: MirfayzbekAbdullayev, CC0, Wikimedia Commons.
.jpg){kind=link}