Surkhandarya in 3–4 Days: Termez, Denau and Boysun

Surkhandarya is the warmest and perhaps the most underrated region of Uzbekistan. The paths of Alexander the Great, the Kushan kings and Buddhist monks crossed here, and in the Boysun mountains people still sing songs and wear embroidery that vanished from the big cities long ago. The region stretches along the Amu Darya and runs up against the Hissar range, so in a few days you can see both desert ruins and green mountain gorges. Below is a 3–4 day route based in Termez, with a night in the mountains.

Getting to Termez

Flying from Tashkent to Termez is the easiest option, about an hour and a half. The train takes a night. Overland from Samarkand it is about 370 km over the Takhtakaracha Pass and the Boysun mountains, six to seven hours, and the road is a sight in its own right. If you are coming down the highway from the north, Boysun is on the way, so you can reverse the route: start in the mountains and finish in Termez.

Day 1: Termez

Termez is one of the oldest cities in the country. In one day it is worth seeing:

• The Termez Archaeological Museum, the best introduction to what lies ahead: Kushan sculpture, coins and finds from the ancient sites.
• Fayaz Tepe, a Buddhist monastery from the 1st–3rd centuries with a stupa and the remains of monks' cells.
• Kara Tepe, a cave monastery on the hills by the Amu Darya; part of the site may be closed, so ask on the spot.
• The Zurmala stupa, the tallest surviving Buddhist structure in the country.
• The mausoleum of Al-Hakim at-Termizi, a 9th-century theologian and the city's main shrine.
• The Sultan Saodat ensemble, the necropolis of the Termez sayyids, with mausoleums from several centuries.
• Kyrk Kyz, a mysterious square building with forty rooms.

The Afghan border runs right along the river, so some sites have border posts nearby. Carry your passport and do not photograph military installations.

Day 2: Denau, Sariosiyo and the Sangardak waterfall

Head north in the morning. The road from Termez to Denau is about 130 km and usually takes 2–2.5 hours. On the way, in Jarkurgan, stop at the 12th-century brick minaret with its unusual fluted masonry.

Denau is an old market town at the foot of the mountains, centred on the Sayyid Atalyk Madrasa. Nearby lies the ancient site of Khalchayan, where archaeologists found famous Kushan sculptures that are now in museums.

Sariosiyo is close to Denau: the drive from Denau to Sariosiyo takes about half an hour. From here a road leads into the mountains to the Sangardak waterfall, one of the tallest and most beautiful in the country. The road is mountainous and the last stretch is on foot; ask local drivers about conditions, especially after rain. In spring the waterfall is at its fullest, and in summer it is noticeably cooler by the water than down in the valley.

You can stay the night in Denau or go back to Termez, which makes for a long day.

Day 3: Boysun

The road from Termez to Boysun runs about 170 km north, roughly three hours. It climbs through Sherabad and the Darband gorge, the Iron Gates that caravans and ancient armies once passed through.

Boysun is a small mountain town whose cultural space is inscribed by UNESCO on the list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Rituals, songs and embroidery that researchers have studied for decades are still part of everyday life here. What to do:

1. Walk through the old neighbourhoods and the bazaar.
2. Visit the Omonkhona spring in the mountains, a place of pilgrimage and a favourite picnic spot for locals.
3. With a local guide, head up to the mountain villages; the Teshik-Tash grotto, where a Neanderthal site was discovered, is also in the area. The route is difficult and not recommended without a guide.

Spend the night in a Boysun guesthouse, the best way to see mountain life from the inside.

Day 4: back or onwards north

From Boysun you have two options. Return to Termez, three hours, and fly out. Or continue north through Guzar and Shahrisabz to Samarkand, about five hours. The second is ideal if you are travelling around the country in a loop.

Seasons and weather

Surkhandarya is the hottest region of the country. From June to August Termez can hit 45°C, and the monuments are only bearable in the morning and evening. The best times are March–May and October–November: spring arrives earlier here than in Tashkent, and autumn lingers longer. In the Boysun mountains nights stay cool even in summer.

Tips

• Cash: Termez and Denau have ATMs; the mountain villages do not.
• Dress modestly: the region is traditional.
• Keep your passport handy, as document checks at road posts are routine.
• Carry water and a hat even on short walks.

Getting around

Trains in the region are rare and minibuses irregular, so many people travel by car. A shared ride on Yo'ldosh is a way to get from Termez to Denau or Boysun for less than a taxi: you book a seat in the app and drivers are verified. See rides on Termez to Denau, Termez to Boysun and Denau to Sariosiyo, as well as all routes.

Cover photo: Shuhrataxmedov, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons.