Kuvasay: a town at the foot of the valley's southern mountains

From the central streets of Fergana on a clear day you can see a jagged wall of mountains to the south. The closest sizeable town to them is Kuvasay, which grew up in Soviet times as a centre for building materials and has become, for many people in Fergana, a gateway to cooler air. From here roads lead to the foothills of the Alay range, along the Kuvasay river and to a reservoir where people gather in summer to relax by the water.

Where Kuvasay is

Kuvasay is in the southern part of the Fergana region, about 15–20 km from Fergana city. The drive takes 20–30 minutes. The town sits almost at the foot of the mountains, and to the south begins the border zone with Kyrgyzstan. The Kuvasay river, which rises in the mountains and gives its name to the whole district, runs through the town.

In its architecture Kuvasay is a typical industrial town of the second half of the twentieth century: apartment blocks, wide streets and factory buildings on the outskirts. The main employer is a cement plant whose output goes all over the country. Around the town, though, private plots are full of orchards and vineyards, with hills rising behind them.

What to see in town

Kuvasay does not promise architectural monuments, but it is a pleasant place to spend a couple of hours:

• The riverside. Shady stretches with teahouses and raised tapchan platforms line the water, where you can drink tea next to the cool stream.
• The bazaar. Small but lively: in summer it sells apricots, cherries and peaches from the surrounding orchards, in autumn grapes, pomegranates and nuts.
• Parks and central streets. The town is green, and in the evening families come out for a stroll, a good chance to see everyday life in the valley.

If you have an extra hour, walk through the residential lanes on the edge of town: almost every house has a vine over the courtyard and a couple of apricot trees, and owners often sell their harvest right at the gate.

The foothills and the reservoir

The main reason to come to Kuvasay is the countryside around it:

Karkidon reservoir

Not far from town is the Karkidon reservoir, one of the places where people from Fergana and the surrounding area go in summer. The water is clean and cool, and the shores are surrounded by hills. Visitors have picnics, sunbathe and fish. Bear in mind that it is a working reservoir, and there may be no proper beaches or lifeguards: swim carefully, do not go far out and do not jump into the water from high points.

Hills and gorges

South of the town the Alay foothills begin. In April and May the slopes are covered with grass and tulips, and in summer the gorges are noticeably cooler than the valley floor. Many people come just to walk, have a barbecue in permitted places and spend the night in country cottages rented out by local families.

Important: some areas closer to the border are part of the border zone. Do not wander far without a local guide, and never try to cross the mountains towards Kyrgyzstan; crossing is only possible at official checkpoints.

Where and what to eat

Teahouses and summer cafes operate in Kuvasay and along the roads to the mountains. Worth trying:

• Fergana plov with yellow carrots and chickpeas, served at lunchtime.
• Shashlik of lamb and liver, especially popular at the waterside picnic spots.
• Tandoor samsa, a handy snack for the road.
• Shurpa, a rich soup that is welcome after a walk on a cool day.
• Fruit from the bazaar: in season the apricots and cherries from the foothill orchards are especially fragrant.

When to go

• Spring (April to May): greenery, blossom and tulips on the slopes; the most beautiful time for walks.
• Summer (June to August): the main season for relaxing by the water. At weekends the reservoir is busy; weekdays are quieter.
• Autumn (September to October): fruit harvest and comfortable weather.
• Winter: there may be snow in the mountains and the roads into the foothills can be slippery; not the best season for a trip.

How to get there

Kuvasay is easiest to visit from Fergana. Minibuses and taxis run, but if you are going for a whole day to the water or the hills, it is more practical to arrange your ride in advance. On the Kuvasay – Fergana route drivers post trips on Yo'ldosh, which is cheaper than a private taxi and lets you choose a convenient time to come back. From Tashkent to Fergana the road over the Kamchik pass takes roughly 4.5–5.5 hours.

Practical tips

• Bring water, sunscreen and a hat: the sun in the foothills is strong even when the air feels cool.
• Mobile signal can drop in the mountains, so download offline maps.
• Do not leave rubbish by the water; many picnic areas depend on visitors cleaning up after themselves.
• Cash is useful in teahouses and at cottages, where cards are not always accepted.

Kuvasay is a good choice if you have already seen the silk workshops of Margilan and the ceramics of Rishtan and want to add some mountains and water to your valley trip. To get there and back easily, check trips on the Kuvasay – Fergana route, and find tips for travellers on the for passengers page.

Cover photo: Ozodbek Captain, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.