The Ustyurt plateau: canyons, chinks and Lake Sudochye

The Ustyurt is a vast stony plateau between the Aral and the Caspian, shared by Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and Turkmenistan. The Uzbek part lies in western Karakalpakstan, and it is probably the emptiest place in the country: for hundreds of kilometres there are no villages, no fuel stations and no mobile signal. What it does have is scenery you will not find anywhere else in Uzbekistan.

What the chinks are

The plateau rises above the surrounding plain in sudden escarpments known as chinks. In places the cliffs are 150–200 metres high. The slopes are cut by gullies and small canyons, and layers of limestone and chalk colour them white, cream and pale pink. They look best at sunrise and sunset, when low sunlight picks out every fold.

The main places people go to see the chinks:

• The eastern chink above the former Aral. From the edge of the plateau you see the dry seabed and, further off, the strip of water in the western basin.
• The cliffs above Sudochye. From here you look down on the lakes and reed beds of the old Amu Darya delta.
• The western shore of the Aral. Here the chink drops almost to the water, and many yurt camps stand right by these cliffs.

Lake Sudochye

Sudochye is a system of lakes and reed marshes in the former Amu Darya delta at the foot of the Ustyurt, south of Muynaq. It is one of the most important bird sites in Karakalpakstan: in spring and autumn ducks, herons, waders and other waterbirds stop here on migration, and pelicans are sometimes seen. The water level depends on how much reaches the delta down the Amu Darya, so the lakes look different from year to year.

On the cliff edge above the lake stand the ruins of Urga, a former fishing village. It is a good place to stop and look over the valley from above.

Who lives on the plateau

The Ustyurt looks lifeless, but it is not. Goitered gazelles and Ustyurt mouflon live here, saiga migration routes cross the plateau, and you may see steppe eagles and other raptors overhead. Spotting large animals takes real luck: they are wary and keep away from roads. Do not try to drive up to them, as it frightens the animals and breaks nature protection rules.

Getting there

There are two main gateways to the Ustyurt.

1. Via Qongirot. Qongirot is about 100 km from Nukus, roughly one and a half to two hours. From there a highway heads west across the plateau towards Kazakhstan. You can get to Qongirot as a shared ride on Nukus — Qongirot and continue with a local driver in a 4x4.
2. Via Muynaq. This works well if you want to combine the Ustyurt with the ship graveyard and a trip to the Aral's water. Muynaq is about 200 km from Nukus, and you can book a seat on Nukus — Muynaq.

The highway across the plateau is paved, but everything worth seeing — the chinks, the lakes, the Aral shore — lies away from it along dirt tracks. An ordinary car will not get there.

Why you should not go alone

The Ustyurt does not forgive mistakes. The main reasons to travel with an experienced driver or an organised group:

• No signal. Most of the plateau has no mobile coverage.
• No water or fuel. Fuel stations exist only along the main highway, and even there they are far apart.
• Tracks split and tangle. Navigation apps often show nothing, and after rain the ground turns soft.
• Heat and cold. Summer days go above 40 °C, nights can be chilly even in May, and winter brings hard frosts and wind.
• Restricted areas. There are industrial sites and gas fields on the plateau that you must not enter. Closer to the border other rules apply, and your documents may be checked.

A good driver knows which tracks are reliable, where to camp and what to do if the car breaks down. Before you set off, always tell someone your route and when you expect to be back.

When to go

The best time is from late April to June and from September to mid-October. In spring the steppe turns green for a short while and the lakes are full of birds. Summer trips are possible, but start at dawn and rest in the shade during the hottest hours. In winter the tourist camps are usually closed.

What to pack

• At least 5 litres of water per person per day, ideally more.
• Food for the whole trip plus a day's reserve.
• A windproof jacket and warm clothes for the night.
• A hat, sunglasses and sunscreen.
• A first-aid kit, a power bank and a head torch.
• Cash: cards are not accepted on the plateau.
• Rubbish bags. There is no clean-up on the Ustyurt, and any litter stays for a very long time.

Putting the route together

A classic two-to-three-day trip: Nukus — Muynaq — the western shore of the Aral with a night in a yurt — the cliffs above Sudochye — back via Qongirot or Muynaq. The plateau combines naturally with a trip to the remains of the sea, since the road to the water runs along the edge of the Ustyurt anyway.

You can reach your starting point in a shared car: Yo'ldosh lists trips on Nukus — Qongirot and Nukus — Muynaq, and you will find other destinations under all routes. You book a seat, agree the time with the driver and save your energy for the long days on the plateau.

Cover photo: Danrafaliya cropped by Екатерина Борисова, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.