Sarmishsay: Petroglyphs and a Gorge in the Navoi Region

Sarmishsay is a narrow gorge in the Karatau ridge, in the Navoi region, where thousands of rock carvings survive on cliffs and boulders. They were made over several millennia, from the Bronze Age to later times, and are considered one of the largest collections of petroglyphs in Central Asia. Crowds of tourists do not come here, so a visit feels more like a small expedition. Here is what you need to know.

What you can see

On the slopes of the gorge, figures of animals, hunters, chariots, solar signs and complex scenes have been pecked and scratched. The subjects include bulls, ibex, deer, camels and people with bows. Some drawings are clearly visible, while others have worn away and show only in raking light. It is hard to say exactly what the ancient artists meant to express, but it is clear that this place was regarded as special. A stream flows here and trees grow on the slopes, creating an unexpectedly green contrast against the dry rock.

Where it is and how to get there

The gorge lies in the mountains north of Navoi, roughly several dozen kilometres from the city. The exact distance depends on the road chosen, so it is better to confirm the route with a local driver or guide. Navoi stands on the highway between Samarkand and Bukhara: Samarkand — Navoi and Navoi — Bukhara. From the city to the gorge you drive on asphalt and then on a dirt road that can wash out in wet weather. A car with good ground clearance or a driver who knows the road is recommended.

Organising the visit

Caretakers and guides work on site and will show the main groups of images and explain their age and meaning. It is better to arrange the visit in advance: check opening hours, whether an entrance ticket is needed and the cost of a guide. As a rough guide the visit takes two to four hours, depending on the route chosen. The trail runs along the stony floor of the gorge, with climbs in places, so sturdy footwear is needed.

When to go

• Spring. The best time: green slopes, flowering plants, moderate temperatures.
• Autumn. Also a good option, cool and clear.
• Summer. Hot, and on open rock temperatures can exceed forty degrees. Arrive at dawn and finish by noon.
• Winter. Cold, with possible rain and snow, and the road may be impassable.

Light shows the drawings best in the morning and towards evening, when the sun strikes at an angle.

Rules for treating the petroglyphs

Petroglyphs are unique monuments that are easy to damage. So there are a few simple rules to follow:

1. Do not touch the drawings with your hands: grease and sweat speed up decay.
2. Do not trace the images with chalk, charcoal or water; this must not be done.
3. Do not scratch or write on the stones.
4. Do not take away stones or fragments.
5. Do not climb the rocks to get a better photograph.
6. Stay on the trail and listen to your guide.

What to bring

• At least two litres of water per person: there are few sources in the gorge itself.
• A hat, sunglasses and sunscreen.
• Closed, sturdy shoes.
• A snack, especially if you are going for half a day.
• Binoculars or a zoom camera: some drawings are high up.
• A torch if you plan to stay late.
• Cash, since terminals do not work in the gorge.
• A rubbish bag.

What to do nearby

Sarmishsay combines well with other places in the region. In Navoi you can see parks and a museum, while towards Nurata are the Chashma spring, a mosque and the remains of a fortress. Nature lovers will enjoy the Nuratau mountains and Lake Aydarkul. If you are coming from Bukhara, you can stop on the way in Gijduvan to see ceramics. For a multi-day trip you get a classic chain: Samarkand, Navoi with the gorge, Nurata, Bukhara.

Safety

Snakes and scorpions occur in the gorge, so do not put your hands into crevices or under stones. Walk carefully, as stones can slide. In the heat guard against overheating. After rain, torrents can form in the gorge, so in unsettled weather it is better to postpone the trip. Mobile coverage vanishes, so tell your family the route.

Getting there without a car

Public transport does not run to the gorge. You can reach Navoi by train, bus or car and then hire a local driver. A good option for part of the way is a shared ride. On Yo'ldosh you can find a driver heading along the Samarkand or Bukhara to Navoi highway and book a seat. You pay only for your seat, so it is cheaper than hiring a car all the way. For the last stretch to the gorge, arrange with local drivers or a guide.

Practical tips

Set off early in the morning. Confirm opening hours and rules in advance. Do not leave rubbish. Prices for tickets, guides and transport are approximate and may change, so check them before the trip.

Find other directions on the all routes page, and read how to book rides in the for passengers section.

Cover photo: Relisa Granovskaya, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.