Shahrisabz: Timur's city beyond Ak-Saray

Shahrisabz is Tamerlane's home town, which is exactly why it remains in the shadow of his capital: most travellers come from Samarkand for a few hours, photograph the remains of the Ak-Saray palace and leave. Yet the town has enough to fill a whole day, and its old quarters and workshops tell its story as well as the ruins do.

How to get there

From Samarkand a mountain road crosses the Takhta-Karacha pass to Shahrisabz, and the trip takes about an hour and a half to two hours. It is one of the most popular day trips, so drivers use it constantly. You can choose a minibus, a taxi or a shared ride: in the Yo'ldosh app the Shahrisabz to Samarkand page shows available trips. From Qarshi the road is shorter and simpler, about an hour to an hour and a half: see trips on the Shahrisabz to Qarshi page. From Tashkent it is best to stay overnight in Samarkand or fly to Qarshi and continue by road, and details of that route are on the Tashkent to Shahrisabz page.

Ak-Saray and the historic centre

Everyone comes here for Ak-Saray, the huge palace complex built by Tamerlane. Only parts of the gateway survive, but they are striking in height. The historic centre of Shahrisabz is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Near the palace stand:

• The Dorut Tilavat complex, with the fifteenth-century Kok Gumbaz Mosque built under Ulugh Beg;
• The Gumbazi Seyidan mausoleum and other buildings nearby;
• The Dorus Siadat complex, which holds the tomb of Jahangir, Timur's son, and the crypt prepared for the conqueror himself.

Museums and complexes operate normally, but check hours and ticket prices before you go.

What else to see

The bazaar and trading rows

The central bazaar of Shahrisabz is not as loud as Samarkand's, but it is closer to everyday life. It sells fresh fruit, nuts, dried fruit, flatbread and spices. In autumn the grapes, pomegranates and apricots are especially good. Here you can buy inexpensive gifts.

Embroidery workshops

Shahrisabz has long been famous for embroidery, especially suzani. Local women make large panels with patterns of flowers and solar symbols. Some workshops receive visitors, so you can watch the process and buy directly from the maker. Buy what you really like and ask the price, which depends on size and complexity.

The old quarters

Walk the lanes behind the main monuments: traditional houses with mud walls and courtyards where fruit is drying still survive. It is a pleasant stroll, especially in evening light.

The mountains around

The town lies in the foothills of the Hissar range, and you can be in the mountains within an hour. In spring the slopes are green, and in summer it is fresh up there. Such trips are usually organised with local guides or drivers.

How to spend the day

1. Morning. Ak-Saray and the historic centre, before the heat and the tourists.
2. Midday. Lunch at a tea house and a short rest.
3. Afternoon. Dorut Tilavat and Dorus Siadat, then the bazaar and workshops.
4. Evening. A walk through the old quarters and a return to Samarkand or Qarshi before dark.

If you want an unhurried rhythm, stay overnight: Shahrisabz has guest houses, and in the morning the town empties and becomes especially beautiful.

What to eat

Try plov, shashlik, samsa, lagman and local flatbread. The cuisine of Kashkadarya is typical for Shahrisabz: lots of meat and dairy. Ask a tea house for fresh tea with apricots or nuts.

Practical tips

• Dress modestly, especially in mausoleums.
• Bring water and a hat: summer is very hot.
• Cash is useful at the bazaar and in workshops.
• Plan the return in advance: it is better to cross the mountain pass in daylight.
• Check the current opening hours of monuments before you go.

When to go

Spring and autumn are best. Summer is hot, and in winter the pass may have ice and snow.

Plan your trip

For a trip to Shahrisabz, open the Shahrisabz to Samarkand, Shahrisabz to Qarshi or Tashkent to Shahrisabz pages. Other directions are in all routes. Drivers who regularly cross the pass will find the for drivers page useful.

Cover photo: Hassan Gangu, CC0, Wikimedia Commons.