Bukhara to Nukus: 600 km Across the Desert in One Go
The direct road from Bukhara to Karakalpakstan across the Kyzylkum and along the Amu Darya. Train or car, where to stop overnight and how not to run short of fuel and water.
The road from Bukhara to Nukus is one of the longest and emptiest in Uzbekistan. About 600 km separate the ancient city of madrasas and minarets from the capital of Karakalpakstan, and most of the way runs through the sands of the Kyzylkum and the riverside tugai forests of the Amu Darya. Many travellers split the trip with a stop in Khiva, but some need to get there in one go. Here is how to do it and what to prepare for.
How long it takes and which way you go
The distance between Bukhara and Nukus is about 550 to 600 km depending on the route. By car, the trip takes 8 to 10 hours with stops.
The highway runs northwest from Bukhara across the desert to the Amu Darya, then follows the river towards Khorezm and Karakalpakstan. From there drivers take one of two options:
- via Khorezm, crossing to Urgench and then on to Nukus;
- along the right bank of the Amu Darya, through Turtkul and Beruni, past the ancient fortresses of the Ellikkala district.
| Section | Approximate time |
|---|---|
| Bukhara through the desert to the Amu Darya | 4 to 5 h |
| Along the Amu Darya to Khorezm or Turtkul | 1.5 to 2 h |
| On to Nukus | 2 to 3 h |
The times are approximate and depend on roadworks, heat, stops and the route chosen.
Train or car
Train
There is a railway to Karakalpakstan, but the train route does not always match yours. Some trains towards Nukus and Khorezm run via Navoi and others via Bukhara, and timetables change with the seasons. Before relying on the train, check whether there is a convenient departure from Bukhara on your date and how long it takes. Tickets are sold on presentation of a passport and are best bought in advance for popular dates.
Car
For many people a car is more convenient: leave Bukhara in the morning and be in Nukus by evening, with no changes and no waiting at stations. A taxi over this distance is expensive, so shared rides are popular. On Yo'ldosh you can find a trip from Bukhara to Nukus: the driver is making the journey anyway, and you book a seat and share the road.
Fuel, water and stops
The golden rule of a desert highway is never to assume the next filling station is just around the corner.
- Fuel. Settlements in the desert are far apart. Many cars in Uzbekistan run on gas, and gas stations along this road are fewer than you might hope. If you are driving yourself, fill up at every opportunity and find out where the next station is.
- Water. Carry at least 2 to 3 litres per person, more in summer. There are roadside cafes, but they are far apart.
- Food. You will find truck-stop teahouses serving hot meals, but it helps to have bread, fruit and nuts with you.
- Signal. Mobile coverage drops out on some desert stretches. Let your family know your expected arrival time.
Where to stay overnight if you would rather not do it in one day
If 9 or 10 hours in a car is too much, split the trip:
- Khiva is the most popular choice. Spend the evening in Itchan Kala and drive on to Nukus in the morning, about 3 hours.
- Urgench works well as a transport hub, with plenty of transport to Nukus.
- The Ellikkala district suits anyone who wants to see the ancient fortresses of Khorezm, such as Ayaz-Kala and Toprak-Kala. There are yurt camps nearby, but check conditions and availability in advance.
What to see on the way
- The Kyzylkum. A desert of dunes and saxaul shrubs is an unusual landscape if you are used to green oases.
- The Amu Darya. A wide river with tugai forests along its banks. Stop at a viewpoint, but do not go down to the water in unfamiliar places.
- The Ellikkala fortresses. The mud-brick walls of ancient cities rising out of the sand are among the most photogenic sights in Karakalpakstan.
When to go
- April to May and September to October are best: the desert is warm but not exhausting.
- Summer brings daytime temperatures above 40 °C. Leave at dawn and rest in the shade during the hottest hours.
- Winter is cold, especially at night and in the morning, with fog and ice possible. Bring warm clothes.
Practical tips
- Keep your passport handy, as there are checkpoints on the highway.
- Do not photograph checkpoints or guarded facilities.
- Agree on stops with your driver in advance: where to have lunch and where to take a break.
- Bring sunglasses and sunscreen, as the sun is especially bright on pale sand.
- A trip of this length costs a fair amount, and prices change with fuel costs. Check before you travel.
The way back
From Nukus to Bukhara it is best to leave early in the morning to get through most of the desert before the heat. The Nukus to Bukhara route is also on Yo'ldosh, so you can find a driver and book a seat for your date in advance.
The Bukhara to Nukus road is a true desert crossing, and with the right preparation it goes smoothly. Leave early, bring water and never skip a filling station. See all routes across the country on the routes page.
Cover photo: Jamshid Nurkulov, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.
