Jizzakh: More Than a Highway Stop

For most travelers, Jizzakh is a pause on the Tashkent to Samarkand highway: refuel, stretch your legs and grab a hot samsa. The city really does sit at a crossroads, which is exactly why it is underrated. Jizzakh is in fact an ancient settlement by a pass between the mountains that armies and caravans used for centuries. It has a bustling bazaar and samsa famous across the country, and an hour or two away lie the juniper forests of Zaamin and the desert lake of Aydarkul. If you have a spare day, Jizzakh easily turns from a dot on the map into a proper stop.

Getting there

Jizzakh is one of the most accessible cities in the country, as it lies on the main highway between the capital and Samarkand.

Cars run constantly on the Jizzakh — Tashkent route, and the Jizzakh — Samarkand route is handy for continuing south. If you are coming from Syrdarya Province, the Gulistan — Jizzakh route is a good fit.

A little history

Jizzakh appears in historical sources as an ancient settlement on the road from Fergana and Tashkent to Samarkand. The narrow mountain pass near the city has long been strategic: whoever held it controlled the road. In the 19th century a fortress stood here, and in the 20th century the city became the center for developing the Hungry Steppe (Mirzachul). Jizzakh is also the hometown of Sharof Rashidov, who led Soviet Uzbekistan for many years.

Tamerlane's Gate

The most interesting historic site near the city is the gorge known as Tamerlane's Gate (Temur Darvoza). It is a narrow passage between cliffs through which the road to Samarkand runs. Inscriptions survive on the rocks: one is linked to a campaign of Ulugbek in the 15th century, another to the era of Abdullah Khan in the 16th century. It is worth stopping for at least 15–20 minutes to take in the scale of the cliffs and imagine armies marching through.

Note that this is a busy stretch of highway. Stop only in safe places and do not step onto the roadway.

The bazaar and Jizzakh samsa

Jizzakh's central bazaar is large and lively. It sells vegetables and fruit from nearby farms, melons, spices, dried fruit and bread. But the main reason to go is the samsa.

Jizzakh samsa is different from the usual kind: it is large, sometimes the size of a plate, with a juicy filling of lamb and tail fat, and it is baked in a tandoor. Eat it hot, right by the oven, with tea. Be ready for one to be a full lunch. Prices are approximate, so check on the spot.

Tips:

• samsa is baked from the morning, and the choice shrinks by evening;
• pick places with a queue of locals, a sure sign of freshness;
• bring cash to the bazaar.

A trip to Zaamin

Zaamin is a mountain district southeast of Jizzakh, about 1.5–2 hours away. It is home to Zaamin National Park, with juniper forests, mountain streams and cool air, as well as sanatoriums and holiday areas. In summer people come here to escape the heat, in spring for the flowering slopes. Mountain trails require good shoes, and the national park has visitor rules, so check them in advance.

A trip to Aydarkul

Aydarkul is a large lake on the edge of the Kyzylkum Desert, north of Jizzakh. People come for desert scenery, fishing and a night in a yurt camp. The drive is long, so it is best to go with a local driver. Bring water, sun protection and mosquito repellent, as there can be many by the water.

Sample itinerary

1. Morning: leave Tashkent, stop at the Jizzakh bazaar for samsa.
2. Daytime: visit Tamerlane's Gate, then drive to Zaamin.
3. Evening: overnight in Zaamin.
4. Next day: a mountain walk, then return via Jizzakh or continue to Samarkand.

Where to stay and eat

Jizzakh itself has hotels of various levels, Zaamin has sanatoriums and guesthouses, and there are yurt camps near Aydarkul. Book ahead, especially in summer and on holidays. Besides samsa, try plov, shashlik and local melons in season.

Useful tips

• Season. Spring and autumn are best. Summer is hot in the city but cool in Zaamin.
• Roads. The highway through Jizzakh is busy, especially at weekends, so set off early.
• Documents. Keep your passport with you, as there are checkpoints on the highway.
• Signal. Coverage can drop in the mountains and near the lake.

Planning your trip

Jizzakh fits easily into any itinerary between the capital and Samarkand. On Yo'ldosh you can book a seat with a verified driver on the Jizzakh — Tashkent, Jizzakh — Samarkand or Gulistan — Jizzakh routes and leave at a convenient time. Other directions are on the routes page.

Cover photo: Shuhrataxmedov, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons.