Fermented Dairy Cuisine: Chalop, Ayran, Suzma and Qurt

In summer, temperatures in Uzbekistan often rise above 40 degrees, and local cuisine has long found ways to cope with the heat. One of the main helpers is fermented dairy. Qatiq, ayran, chalop, suzma and qurt are all milk products that refresh, nourish and keep well. Here is how they differ.

Qatiq: the foundation

Qatiq is a home-style fermented milk product, something between yogurt and kefir. It is made from soured milk and is thick, tangy and refreshing. Qatiq is eaten on its own, added to soups, served with plov and manti, and used to make other products. Every dairy dish in Uzbek cuisine starts with qatiq.

If you are just getting acquainted, try a spoon of qatiq with herbs and flatbread. The taste is sour but not sharp.

Chalop: a cold drink-soup

Chalop is one of the most beloved summer drinks. It is qatiq diluted with cold water (sometimes mineral), with finely chopped cucumbers, radish, spring onion, dill and coriander. Sometimes ice is added. It is served in large bowls and drunk with a spoon or straight from the bowl.

Why chalop is loved:

• it quenches thirst better than water;
• it refreshes and revives you in the heat;
• light yet fairly filling;
• it pairs wonderfully with meat and samsa.

Chalop is good to drink after spicy and fatty dishes such as shashlik or plov. It is often served in teahouses in summer.

Ayran: refreshing and simple

Ayran in Uzbekistan and Central Asia is diluted qatiq with salt. It is thinner and tangier than chalop and has no add-ins. It is drunk cold, especially in the heat. It is popular in teahouses and cafes and is also sold in bottles.

The difference between chalop and ayran is simple: chalop has vegetables and herbs, ayran does not.

Suzma: thick strained curd

Suzma is what you get when qatiq is left to drain in a cloth bag. The whey drips out, and what remains is a thick mass like very dense sour cream or soft curd cheese. Suzma is eaten with flatbread, herbs and vegetables, or added to salads and sauces. Sometimes it is salted or mixed with garlic.

Why try it:

• a tangy and delicate flavour;
• rich and nourishing;
• good as a starter and as a sauce for meat.

Suzma is sold at markets in the dairy rows.

Qurt: salty balls

Qurt is dried salty balls made from suzma. They are rolled by hand and dried in the sun. The result is hard, very sour and salty pieces that keep for a long time. Qurt can be dissolved in water to make a tangy drink or the base of a soup, or simply chewed as a snack. It is often taken on the road.

Many tourists' first reaction is surprise: qurt is very salty and sharp. Start with a small piece and wash it down with tea.

Where to try them

• In teahouses and cafes: chalop and ayran are usually served in summer.
• At markets: suzma and qurt can be bought in the dairy rows. Sellers let you taste.
• In guesthouses: hosts often treat guests to home qatiq and suzma.
• On the road: highways sometimes have roadside stalls selling qatiq and qurt.

How to choose

1. Ask to taste before buying.
2. Fresh qatiq should be sour but not bitter and should not smell stale.
3. Suzma should be uniform, without mould.
4. Qurt should be dry, hard and free of any mouldy smell.
5. Buy from trusted sellers, especially in the heat.

Precautions

Dairy spoils quickly in the heat. Do not buy it from informal sellers under the scorching sun, keep it cold and do not leave it open on the road. If you have a sensitive stomach, start with small portions: soured milk is unfamiliar to many. People who are lactose intolerant may not tolerate such products.

A simple chalop recipe

If you want to make it at home:

1. Mix qatiq with cold water at about 1:1.
2. Add a pinch of salt.
3. Chop cucumbers, radish, spring onion, dill and coriander.
4. Add them to the drink and chill.
5. Serve with ice.

Where to go for the taste

A good example of a summer route is a trip to the Jizzakh region, where summers are hot and fermented dairy is especially in demand. The road from Tashkent to Jizzakh takes about 2.5 to 3 hours, and on the Tashkent — Jizzakh page drivers post trips with different departure times. On the way you can try qatiq, ayran and chalop at teahouses, and in Jizzakh itself visit the market. You book a seat in the Yo'ldosh app, drivers are verified, and the price is usually lower than a taxi. Other directions are collected on the all routes page.

The takeaway

Uzbekistan's fermented dairy cuisine is not exotica but a practical tradition that helps in the heat. Cold chalop refreshes, ayran quenches thirst, suzma nourishes and qurt recalls nomadic times. Try each, wash them down with tea and listen to the advice of locals: they know best how to eat and drink in the heat.

Cover photo: Shuhrataxmedov, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons.