A Week on the Silk Road with Stops in Small Towns

Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva are the classic set for a Silk Road trip. But between the famous cities lie dozens of kilometres of road, and on it you can see what the tourist brochures leave out: bazaars where locals trade, workshops that have never heard the word excursion, and towns nobody counts as a sight. Below is a weekly route where the classics combine with small stops.

The idea

We take the Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara axis and add stops along the way. Instead of a flight or a high-speed train with desert flashing by the window, you travel overland and get off where it is interesting. This approach takes time but returns the sense of a journey rather than a transfer.

Days 1 and 2: Samarkand

Give the first two days to Samarkand itself: the Registan, Shah-i-Zinda, Gur-Emir, the Bibi-Khanym mosque and the Siab bazaar. On the afternoon of day two you need not go back to the hotel but can head west.

Day 3: Kattakurgan

Kattakurgan is 70 kilometres from Samarkand, about an hour by road. It is an ordinary regional town with a lively bazaar where you can try fresh flatbread, dried fruit and homemade sweets. A large reservoir lies nearby, pleasant for an evening walk. More on this direction: Samarkand — Kattakurgan. It is also a convenient place to stay overnight if you want to see a town at rest.

Day 4: Nurata and the mountains

Nurata lies off the main highway at the foot of the Nuratau range. Here are the remains of a fortress traditionally linked with Alexander the Great, the sacred Chashma spring with its fish and a mosque above it. It is a quiet place where whole families come. From town you can go into the mountains and see villages with guesthouses and yurt camps. If nature interests you, stay overnight here.

Day 5: Navoi

Navoi sits on the road between Samarkand and Bukhara and was founded in Soviet times. The city was planned as an industrial centre and still has straight avenues and parks. For a traveller it is a breather: you can eat, rest and visit a museum. Roads to Sarmishsay also begin here. Route towards Bukhara: Navoi — Bukhara.

Day 6: Gijduvan and Bukhara

Before Bukhara, stop in Gijduvan, about 45 kilometres away. It is a town of potters: in the workshops you will see how dark green glazed tableware is made. The mausoleum of Abdulkhaliq Gijduvani is here too. Details: Bukhara — Gijduvan. You arrive in Bukhara in the second half of the day and can catch sunset at Lyabi-Hauz.

Day 7: Bukhara

Give the seventh day to Bukhara: the Ark, Kalon, the Ismail Samani mausoleum and the trading domes. If time remains, go to the Naqshband mausoleum.

Why small towns deserve a stop

• Fewer tourists: you see everyday life rather than a show for guests.
• Cheaper: lodging and food cost noticeably less than in famous centres.
• People are open: they approach a foreigner, offer hospitality and ask questions.
• You understand the country better: Uzbekistan is not only monuments but also towns where people work, trade and raise children.

How to organise it

High-speed trains run between Samarkand and Bukhara but do not stop in small towns. Buses and minibuses do, but the timetable is not always convenient. Combining is best: take the main stretches by train and the intermediate ones by road. A shared ride is useful here. On Yo'ldosh you can book a seat with a driver covering the section you need, for example Samarkand to Kattakurgan or Navoi to Bukhara. You pay only for your seat, so it comes out cheaper than a taxi.

Tips on lodging and food

• Small towns offer guesthouses with home cooking, which you can find online or ask about on the spot.
• Book lodging in advance in high season, spring and autumn.
• Try regional dishes: every town has its own take on plov and bread.
• Carry cash: outside tourist centres cards are not accepted everywhere.

Cautions

In summer temperatures in the lowlands rise above forty degrees, so plan long transfers for the morning. Do not try to hit every stop in one day; it is better to drop one and enjoy the rest. Prices for lodging and transport are approximate and worth checking in advance.

Browse all routes to assemble your own journey, and in the for passengers section find booking tips.

Cover photo: Ahmadjonova Azizaxon, CC0, Wikimedia Commons.